Category: Paddlewheel Boat

Nova Scotia to Lake Huron

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Spend a night at Ile aux Coudres if you can- the strangest place I ever stayed. The tide runs out on a marina filled with decent cruising auxiliaries and powerboats leaving everyone upright to their waterlines in soft silt. Really different. Jesse Deupree F27 ION Portland Maine Jesse- Although you might not have this problem with your trimaran, don’t you think settling in silt would clog engine raw water intakes??

I have been there often. No problem whith  raw water intakes. You must take care not to use them tho  (the head). The boats litterally float in the mud. The marinas (there are 3 or 4 like that) were not built like that but filled up with time and the operators do not make enough money to dredge them. A bilingual cruising guide was published in 1984 but it is out of print. A good advice is to talk to the locals. They will help you with the departure time vs tide vs weather conditions. They usually do better than the guides. — — Jean-Marie Houle

Response:

Although you might not have this problem with your trimaran, don’t you think settling in silt would clog engine raw water intakes??

We were warned to close all through hulls- in our case the outboard was pulled up and the steam gauge paddlewheel taken out (we really don’t like to lose speed reports :-) . We were also warned not to fall in. "You can’t walk on it and you can’t swim in it" was the word. My big regret was that low tide was at night and we could not get a picture. I also wondered whether suction could ever be a problem. I pictured a boat getting held down while the water came up, but no one there was concerned. We found local advice was good if we could manage the language barrier. At Ile aux Coudres, we struggled to understand being told that there was "no water" at low tide, while we looked at the deep draft boats around the marina and the setup which obviously was not predicated on the boats taking to a hard bottom. Finally an english speaking boatbuilder next door overheard our struggles with the french speaking marina worker and came over and explained what "no water" meant. I had not heard of this kind of situation before- at this marina the silt is stirred up by the ferry leaving the terminal at the entrance to the marina. As Jean-Marie Houle points out, the marina/ferry terminal was built with Govt funds but marina profits won’t pay for the dredging no one anticipated. Naturally we figured we had the perfect boat to take to the ground, we do it regularly- I never expected to see a C&C 35 so comfortable doing the same thing though. I also want to comment on how friendly everyone was. This is a wonderful remote area. Our day playing with a pod of belugas was magical. Not many boats use this portion of the river, because of the lack of facilities. Jesse Deupree F27 ION Portland Maine

Response:

Chester in beautiful Mahone Bay! Try to be around for Chester Race Week…early August I believe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Chester, near Lunenberg.

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I’ve kept copies of this Old (January) thread as I was very interested in this journey. Can anyone do a followup post as to how things have shaped up and let us know how it’s going? thanks, Keith Hood

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Several years ago, I helped bring a sailboat on the reverse cruise, from Sarnia, Ontario, on Lake Huron to Lunenburg Nova Scotia.  We took plan c. The St Lawrence is still very cold in June, and therefore so are the winds blowing off the water – not to say the waters of the Bay of Fundy are any too warm in June, but as you head south, it will warm up.  We took over three weeks.  With the locks like the Erie Canal, there is only so far u can go in a day. For lots of the trip, we were in a sailboat with no mast, so no 8 knts, more like 6.5-7.  Great trip.  Good luck. What is the best way to get a coastal cruiser from Nova Scotia to Lake Huron in June and how long would the trip take at 8 knots cruising speed? (a) North to the St. Lawrence Seaway, then down to Lake Ontario and across the Trent-Savern canal system (b) North to the St. Lawrence Seaway, then down Lake Ontario, through the locks to Lake Eirie, then through the locks to Lake Huron (c)  Across the Bay of Fundy, then south down the coast of Maine to the Hudson River, then north to the Eirie Canal and across to Lake Eirie, then through the locks to Lake Huron (d) On a truck

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve just done part of that trip last summer in my 28 ft sailboat – New York to Port aux Basques NFL, Magdalens, Nothumberland Strait , St Lawrence to Sorel, Lake Champlain and the Hudson back to NY. So I can’t speak aboutthe trip above Sorel. Ifx you can do 8 knots, you’ll have less problems than I had with my boat doing only 5.5-6 under engine. You can work the tides until 3 Rivi

Mississippi River Cruises?

Question:

Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise?

Response:

We have taken three cruises on the Mississippi, 2 on Delta Queen and 1 on American Queen. It is not like an ocean cruise at all. The ship ties up overnight. Sometimes they just fasten a line to the shore. The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. Of course a lot depends on how high the river is. The entertainment is corny but fun. The food is ….well nourishing <g Cabins are quite small with not much storage space. Jackets for dinner is the dress code. You can fly kites off the stern when under way. With the exception of Natchez and New Orleans the ports are fairly dull. The ship is the destination. The passengers are middle America for the most part, senior, courteous and nicely dressed. Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.travel.cruises Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:23 PM Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise? — Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress: Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise?

Response:

The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. <<

Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day? The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees

you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream?

Response:

See the answers below the questions. — Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress:

The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. << Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day?

The ship makes one stop each day. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream?

The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone. Otherwise Baton Rouge and a lot of the riverside cities would flood every spring.

Response:

The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone.

<< So what do you see? Dirt mounds?! Why did you take the trip three times?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -See the answers below the questions. The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. << Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day? The ship makes one stop each day. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream? The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone. Otherwise Baton Rouge and a lot of the riverside cities would flood every spring.

You get north of Quincy Illinois, you will see very few levees. The upper Mississippi has some excellent scenery…. Putt…

Response:

Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise?

Response:

We have taken three cruises on the Mississippi, 2 on Delta Queen and 1 on American Queen. It is not like an ocean cruise at all. The ship ties up overnight. Sometimes they just fasten a line to the shore. The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. Of course a lot depends on how high the river is. The entertainment is corny but fun. The food is ….well nourishing <g Cabins are quite small with not much storage space. Jackets for dinner is the dress code. You can fly kites off the stern when under way. With the exception of Natchez and New Orleans the ports are fairly dull. The ship is the destination. The passengers are middle America for the most part, senior, courteous and nicely dressed. Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: rec.travel.cruises Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 8:23 PM Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise? — Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress: Anyone here been on a paddlewheel boat down the Mississippi? How does it compare to a regular (ocean) cruise?

Response:

The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. <<

Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day? The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees

you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream?

Response:

See the answers below the questions. — Article 11 section 1; US Constitution "Each state shall appoint, in such Manner as the Legislature thereof may direct, a Number of electors, equal to the whole Number of Senators  and Representatives to which the State may be entitled in the Congress:

The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. << Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day?

The ship makes one stop each day. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream?

The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone. Otherwise Baton Rouge and a lot of the riverside cities would flood every spring.

Response:

The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone.

<< So what do you see? Dirt mounds?! Why did you take the trip three times?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -See the answers below the questions. The cruising is during the day and it is not far between stops. << Is it like an ocean cruise where the ship stops one place for most of the day and then moves on, or does the ship stop for a few hours and then goes on to more ports of call during the day? The ship makes one stop each day. The trip through locks is quite interesting. Because of the levees you cannot see the countryside. << Just in the levees or all along the Mississippi? I am looking for a tour of what I would consider is Mark Twain’s Mississippi. Is that an impossible dream? The levees are all along the Mississippi, Mark Twains’ is long gone. Otherwise Baton Rouge and a lot of the riverside cities would flood every spring.

You get north of Quincy Illinois, you will see very few levees. The upper Mississippi has some excellent scenery…. Putt…

Response:

Electronic boat management

Question:

Thanks.  I thought that I had lost my mind.  You are speaking about one of those old style rotary displays.  I’m sure that this information was all there in your original post, so please accept my apologies. That makes a pile of sense.  I’ll bet that I can find an old transponder such as this to use on my system.  Your system makes a ton more sense than mine.  Now I can see the value of your system. One thought is to get hold of one of these transponders and then I can communicate with it one digital input and one output.  Of course, I’ll need to latch the return pulse.  I’ll just set it up to reset the latch when I send the pulse.  Then, I’ll just pole the input line until it comes high.  Too easy. Perhaps a better way would be to have an oscillator and a counter.  When you send the pulse, reset the counter and start counting.  When the return pulse comes back, just stop the counter.  This way, there I could eliminate the polling. I really appreciate your patience.  My misunderstanding had me thinking that you were using a derivative of a light saber.  I thought that the force was with you. Do you have any data on these old transponders?  Do you have any interest in joint development of this system? Thanks again, Tom Brown – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry…again, to complicated. You missed a CRITICAL part of my previous post: I have a transponder! This is a device that converts a voltage to a sound pulse, and any sound pulses received, it converts to a voltage. No fancy lasers.    So it’s SOUND through water I’m measuring, not light. (as in SONAR). AFAIK, all depth sounders work like this.    The rotating LED is the sounder I have now. It’s at least 10 years old, no CPU, no VLSI, just descrete transistors, resistors, etc. And a whirling disk with an LED on it as a display (no LCD). when the LED is at the top, the sounder sends a voltage pulse to the transponder, which is converted to a sound "ping". That "ping" is reflected off the bottom, and returns as a small sound, which is picked up by the transponder and converted to a voltage pulse. Meanwhile, the disk is turning. The longer it takes for the signal to go down to the bottom and return, the farther the disk has spun since the ping was sent out. The LED flashes when the ping returns. There are numbers beside the spinning disk, corresponding to depth. So, if the disk spins 1/4-turn from the output to the return, the LED flashes at "3-oclock", which is marked as 15 feet. If you slow the disk down to the "slow" setting, the same mark means 15 fathoms.    It’s a stupidly simple arrangement, and it works very well. Only problem is that you can’t see the LED very well in sunlight.    Anyway, this is my current depth sounder. My u-processor controlled one will work basically the same way, using the same transponder, sending it a pulse, and timing the delay until it returns. As you can imagine from the above description, the delay is at least miliseconds, so even a lowly Z80 should be fast enough. (Anybody have the speed of sound in salt water handy?) Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 You’re WAY off onto the complicated end of the spectrum. No kidding.    Remember that my current depth sounder is a wheel that spins round, the pulse goes out when an LED is at the top, and it flashes again when the reflection comes. No FFT’s. No sound card. Certainly no microsecond accuracy. Similarly, I’m doing the same thing. Send a pulse by setting a number of the 8 bits to 1, thus putting 5VDC on a number of resistors. This creates a voltage between 0-5VDC on the input of an op-amp, which drives it to the power required for the transponder. ?????  I appologise for my ignorance, but you are talking way over my head.

Response:

Yup – that’s why "good" depth sounders include a temp. sensor. But cheap ones don’t, and they seem to work OK. (BTW – would they be calibrated for "salt" or "fresh" water?)

Hmm, that’s a good question.  As you can see from the equation, salt water vs. fresh water would change your depth reading by about 2.4%  or so, depending on temperature.  At shallow depths, temperature is the largest factor.  At deeper depths, pressure becomes a factor because the temp becomes constant, but a recreational boater really doesn’t care all that much if their sounder is off when the depths get into the thousands of meters.  Salinity is right there in the middle, and is something that might be worth calibrating for. BTW, for the software I write at work, if the operator doesn’t enter a speed of sound, the default I use is 5000 ft/sec.  That’s probably a good enough approximation for a salt water depth sounder.  But usually the first thing that’s always done is to get a temperature profile of the area.    It’s interesting that you bring this up – a lot of folks read their sounders to the nearest 1/10-ft, as if they were really that accurate! As you pointed out, they’re maybe good 5% accuracy. Maybe. Thanks all the same, I’ll keep out of any water where my sounder reads less than 8 feet. You go ahead…

I know from experience that from the where my sounder is located on the hull, when it’s reads 3.9ft I’m ok, when it reads 3.8ft, I start to scrape.  I usually set the depth alarm for 6ft.  But I have been across large stretches of water where I had to lower the depth alarm to 4ft because it would stay on all the time if I left it at 6ft. Steve

Response:

Yup – that’s why "good" depth sounders include a temp. sensor. But cheap ones don’t, and they seem to work OK. (BTW – would they be calibrated for "salt" or "fresh" water?)    It’s interesting that you bring this up – a lot of folks read their sounders to the nearest 1/10-ft, as if they were really that accurate! As you pointed out, they’re maybe good 5% accuracy. Maybe. Thanks all the same, I’ll keep out of any water where my sounder reads less than 8 feet. You go ahead… Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – fast enough. (Anybody have the speed of sound in salt water handy?) The speed of sound in water is highly variable.  It depends on temperature, pressure, and salinity. Here’s an approximate equation to figure it out: c = 1449.2 + 4.6T – 0.055T^2 + 0.00029T^3 + (1.34-0.01T)(S-35) + 0.016z   T temperature in degrees Celsius, S salinity in parts per thousand   z is depth in meters An accurate depth gauge is an interesting problem because the speed of sound changes as the sound travels down and then back up. Anyway, here’s a few examples, not from the equation above, but actually measured: depth (m)  temp (C)  salinity (%)    speed (m/s)  0          0           0               1402  0         20           0               1482  0         20           3.5             1522 Have fun.:) Steve

Response:

 (Anybody have the speed of sound in salt water handy?) Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36

1490 meters a second. — Harry Krause My assault rifle IS used for sport I hunt BATF agents

Response:

fast enough. (Anybody have the speed of sound in salt water handy?)

The speed of sound in water is highly variable.  It depends on temperature, pressure, and salinity. Here’s an approximate equation to figure it out: c = 1449.2 + 4.6T – 0.055T^2 + 0.00029T^3 + (1.34-0.01T)(S-35) + 0.016z   T temperature in degrees Celsius, S salinity in parts per thousand   z is depth in meters An accurate depth gauge is an interesting problem because the speed of sound changes as the sound travels down and then back up. Anyway, here’s a few examples, not from the equation above, but actually measured: depth (m)  temp (C)  salinity (%)    speed (m/s)  0          0           0               1402  0         20           0               1482  0         20           3.5             1522 Have fun.:) Steve

Response:

Jumping into this thread a little late, I liket the previous idea of using a cheap sound card for doing the sonar data aquisition. They are already set up to sample analog signals at a programmable rate, so timing won’t be an issue. The post-processing (finding the bottom return) is best done in software. The algorithm for finding the bottom may have to be ‘tweaked’ to optimize it and its easier to tweak software than re-solder hardware. In addition, with a high enough resolution (22 kHz for example) the resolution might be high enough to derive some useable information from the bottom reflection. You might even be able to deduce bottom types. — Disclaimer: This publication is the sole property of monkey #108765 and his typewriter. It does not represent the opinions of any other primate, either alive or dead, or any descendents thereof.

Response:

First of all, a "sound card" requires a PC-slot. It requires a driver, which usually requires Win95/98, which in turn requires a hard drive, display, keyboard…    My system requires a $150 SBC with an 8-bit out and 8-bit in ports.    Also, done my way, a Z80 is probably enough horsepower – a 68000 would be plenty. Your way, you’d need a 100MHZ Pentium.    Finally, if I DO determine "some useable information from the bottom reflection", how do I display it on a 3 1/2 -digit display? Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting – KISS – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Jumping into this thread a little late, I liket the previous idea of using a cheap sound card for doing the sonar data aquisition. They are already set up to sample analog signals at a programmable rate, so timing won’t be an issue. The post-processing (finding the bottom return) is best done in software. The algorithm for finding the bottom may have to be ‘tweaked’ to optimize it and its easier to tweak software than re-solder hardware. In addition, with a high enough resolution (22 kHz for example) the resolution might be high enough to derive some useable information from the bottom reflection. You might even be able to deduce bottom types. — Disclaimer: This publication is the sole property of monkey #108765 and his typewriter. It does not represent the opinions of any other primate, either alive or dead, or any descendents thereof.

Response:

Sorry…again, to complicated. You missed a CRITICAL part of my previous post: I have a transponder! This is a device that converts a voltage to a sound pulse, and any sound pulses received, it converts to a voltage. No fancy lasers.    So it’s SOUND through water I’m measuring, not light. (as in SONAR). AFAIK, all depth sounders work like this.    The rotating LED is the sounder I have now. It’s at least 10 years old, no CPU, no VLSI, just descrete transistors, resistors, etc. And a whirling disk with an LED on it as a display (no LCD). when the LED is at the top, the sounder sends a voltage pulse to the transponder, which is converted to a sound "ping". That "ping" is reflected off the bottom, and returns as a small sound, which is picked up by the transponder and converted to a voltage pulse. Meanwhile, the disk is turning. The longer it takes for the signal to go down to the bottom and return, the farther the disk has spun since the ping was sent out. The LED flashes when the ping returns. There are numbers beside the spinning disk, corresponding to depth. So, if the disk spins 1/4-turn from the output to the return, the LED flashes at "3-oclock", which is marked as 15 feet. If you slow the disk down to the "slow" setting, the same mark means 15 fathoms.    It’s a stupidly simple arrangement, and it works very well. Only problem is that you can’t see the LED very well in sunlight.    Anyway, this is my current depth sounder. My u-processor controlled one will work basically the same way, using the same transponder, sending it a pulse, and timing the delay until it returns. As you can imagine from the above description, the delay is at least miliseconds, so even a lowly Z80 should be fast enough. (Anybody have the speed of sound in salt water handy?) Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’re WAY off onto the complicated end of the spectrum. No kidding.    Remember that my current depth sounder is a wheel that spins round, the pulse goes out when an LED is at the top, and it flashes again when the reflection comes. No FFT’s. No sound card. Certainly no microsecond accuracy. Similarly, I’m doing the same thing. Send a pulse by setting a number of the 8 bits to 1, thus putting 5VDC on a number of resistors. This creates a voltage between 0-5VDC on the input of an op-amp, which drives it to the power required for the transponder. ?????  I appologise for my ignorance, but you are talking way over my head.

Response:

I played around a bit with a rig like that at Uni.  If I remember correctly we got a range of about 5m in air!  The resolution was about 5cm.  The main problem was shaping the pulse to the transducer.  You have to dump a lot of energy in at the resonant frequency and a few cycles later damp the resonance QUICKLY.  Life is complicated if you are using the same transducer to receive the echoes as we were using 50V rails in the TX amp and the RX amp could NOT take the resulting power level.  The TX amp was pretty bombproof as the spec called for indefinite short-circuit capability but we blew a lot of opamps in the RX amp.  At one stage I considered adding a valve input stage to buffer and clamp the input levels during the TX pulse.  Life was complicated by a small design flaw in the TX amp which meant that it could operate as a 50 MHz power oscillator! You are SURE to have fun just getting a echo trace on a scope.  The A/D and software will be the easy bit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I have an Ace in the Hole – a working transponder. The theory is this: send a pulse to the transponder, count how long before you get a ping back. I’d probably cheat on the D/A and A/D converters – just use 8 bits and some resistors. Of course, there will be some adjustment of detecting the returning ping, as well as how strong the transmitted pulse is. If I wanted to get fancy, I could to that automatically in the programming, but I’ll probably do it manually (I’m only interested in less than, say 100 ft)     For calibration, I can either calculate it (using speed of sound through salt water) or take a few measured depths (remember a sounding line?) and calibrate that way.    Pretty simple, really. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

You’re WAY off onto the complicated end of the spectrum.

No kidding.    Remember that my current depth sounder is a wheel that spins round, the pulse goes out when an LED is at the top, and it flashes again when the reflection comes. No FFT’s. No sound card. Certainly no microsecond accuracy. Similarly, I’m doing the same thing. Send a pulse by setting a number of the 8 bits to 1, thus putting 5VDC on a number of resistors. This creates a voltage between 0-5VDC on the input of an op-amp, which drives it to the power required for the transponder.

?????  I appologise for my ignorance, but you are talking way over my head. OK, so you have an LED (laser ?) and a strobe wheel with a single hole (shutter).  The wheel rotates causing a pulse of light to emitt.  I think I’m with you so far.  Please correct me if I’m not.    The reflection will be buffered by another op-amp, and a set of comparators will determine how many bits will be set going into the port (OK, maybe I will use an A/D). Alternatively I could set the "other" side of the comparitor with an output from the SBC. The port will be scanned and "standard" debounce software used. If the signal is really noisy, I’ll add some HW debounce. No reflection? increase the output. More than one? pick the first one and decrease the output. And so on…

Reflection buffered?  I’m just not following.  Do you have a photo transistor, or photo resistor, or photo diode?  A voltage change is fed into the op-amp.  OK, a comparitor is designed to present the time to an ADC or perhaps a bunch of digital inputs.  Sounds like a complicated circuit.  Are there ICs to do this (I mean at a higher level than just an op-amp).  It sounds fairly complicated. What blows my mind is that it sounds like you are timing a pulse of light.  Are you?  Are you using an infra-red diode?  Are you using a laser diode?  OK, so you shine a light.  I can’t picture the light bouncing off of the bottom of a lake that has only a few feet of visability.  OK, so you find a laser at a frequency that is not as readily absorbed by the water.  What then?  Will this light really bounce off of the bottom and come back bright enough to activate a photo sensitive device of some kind?  Does it have to be aimed perfectly?  Wow.  100 feet?  Wow. I know that I can tape one channel and watch another (my device to do that has a flashing "12:00"), but I’m having a hard time with this light pulse timing technique.  Does it really work? Do the optics need to be ultra-accurate? Here’s how I picture it:                                                        |           |                                            |  diode –                                              |           |         –                                 | ===shaft==|                      -                    |           |                                       –   |           |  <- shutter                                |           |                                       <-   |                                  <-                    | psd <-                                                 |                                                        | (psd = photo sensitive device)                         |                                                        |                                               bottom- |                                                        |    Remember I’m just looking for depth here, not type of bottom or fish. The output will be buffered, so fish, spurious signals, etc. will be ignored. Weedy bottom, etc. results in a wide, noisy return signal – I’ll just pick the middle.

I too am just looking for depth.  Can I buy a transponder such as you describe that will give me an output of some kind that I can just sample with an ADC? Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36

Thank you for your patience.  This technology is completely new to me.  I didn’t know that light could travel through water without being absorbed in a very short distance. Tom Brown

Response:

Get a TI DSP DSK.  Built in timers, A/D, D/A, can do FFT’s etc. About $99-$150 and the $150 (6211 DSK) includes a 1 day training class. No stinking MSFT operating system, no LINUX, just embedded programming.  One of the Semi makers makes a  SONAR chip.  Looked at it a few years ago, can’t remember who. Maybe us? Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You’re WAY off onto the complicated end of the spectrum.    Remember that my current depth sounder is a wheel that spins round, the pulse goes out when an LED is at the top, and it flashes again when the reflection comes. No FFT’s. No sound card. Certainly no microsecond accuracy. Similarly, I’m doing the same thing. Send a pulse by setting a number of the 8 bits to 1, thus putting 5VDC on a number of resistors. This creates a voltage between 0-5VDC on the input of an op-amp, which drives it to the power required for the transponder.    The reflection will be buffered by another op-amp, and a set of comparators will determine how many bits will be set going into the port (OK, maybe I will use an A/D). Alternatively I could set the "other" side of the comparitor with an output from the SBC. The port will be scanned and "standard" debounce software used. If the signal is really noisy, I’ll add some HW debounce. No reflection? increase the output. More than one? pick the first one and decrease the output. And so on…    Remember I’m just looking for depth here, not type of bottom or fish. The output will be buffered, so fish, spurious signals, etc. will be ignored. Weedy bottom, etc. results in a wide, noisy return signal – I’ll just pick the middle. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 That’s kind of what I thought.  The problem I have is that I see a bunch of problems. This could be done with a sound card, but that is more complex

programming than the more – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – simple forms of data acquisition and control. Suppose you use a sound card, find a set of libraries to create the pulse and then sample for a given time period.  I would assume fast fourier transforms would be used to pick the pulse out of the noise, but what happens if the bottom is muddy?  Won’t this cause some frequency shifting?  What happens if you have engine noise in this range clouding the signal? How close to real time can you really get with a PC?  I doubt that it would be good enough to provide any depth accuracy.  OK, you could take a whole bunch of samples and average them to get something that might be close enough.  What about extremely shallow water?  It would be great if shallow water could be detected and the software could move the engine into a safe mode (jack plate up, tilt up a bit).  How fast will the signal come back?  I haven’t taken the time to calculate the propagation time for a sound pulse through water over, say, 6 feet (3 feet of water).  It would have to be a pretty short time.  Certainly I could deal with millisecond intervals, but

microsecond intervals would more than I would expect from an SBC.  Sure, I can get beyond the 32 ms timer resolution, but Linux is a multi-tasking environment (one of the reasons I chose it), so I can’t get that much beyond it safely. What are your plans for picking the return signal out of the noise?  How are you going to identify signal reflected off of weeds, fish, etc., from the actual bottom?  Clearly some very sophisticated software could be developed to handle all of these things and provide a ton of information about what is down there, but you are

talking about writing – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – this in assembler.  Sorry for all of the questions.  You can see from my confusion why I don’t plan on implementing a depth detection function.  If you have solved the problem and would consider sharing the solution, that would be extremely interesting to me. Thanks, Tom Brown Well, I have an Ace in the Hole – a working transponder. The theory is this: send a pulse to the transponder, count how long before you get a ping back. I’d probably cheat on the D/A and A/D converters – just use 8 bits and some resistors. Of course, there will be some adjustment of detecting the returning ping, as well as how strong the transmitted pulse is. If I wanted to get fancy, I could to that automatically in the programming, but I’ll probably do it manually (I’m only interested in less than, say 100 ft)     For calibration, I can either calculate it (using speed of sound through salt water) or take a few measured depths (remember a sounding line?) and calibrate that way.    Pretty simple, really. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom

Response:

You’re WAY off onto the complicated end of the spectrum.    Remember that my current depth sounder is a wheel that spins round, the pulse goes out when an LED is at the top, and it flashes again when the reflection comes. No FFT’s. No sound card. Certainly no microsecond accuracy. Similarly, I’m doing the same thing. Send a pulse by setting a number of the 8 bits to 1, thus putting 5VDC on a number of resistors. This creates a voltage between 0-5VDC on the input of an op-amp, which drives it to the power required for the transponder.    The reflection will be buffered by another op-amp, and a set of comparators will determine how many bits will be set going into the port (OK, maybe I will use an A/D). Alternatively I could set the "other" side of the comparitor with an output from the SBC. The port will be scanned and "standard" debounce software used. If the signal is really noisy, I’ll add some HW debounce. No reflection? increase the output. More than one? pick the first one and decrease the output. And so on…    Remember I’m just looking for depth here, not type of bottom or fish. The output will be buffered, so fish, spurious signals, etc. will be ignored. Weedy bottom, etc. results in a wide, noisy return signal – I’ll just pick the middle. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That’s kind of what I thought.  The problem I have is that I see a bunch of problems. This could be done with a sound card, but that is more complex programming than the more simple forms of data acquisition and control. Suppose you use a sound card, find a set of libraries to create the pulse and then sample for a given time period.  I would assume fast fourier transforms would be used to pick the pulse out of the noise, but what happens if the bottom is muddy?  Won’t this cause some frequency shifting?  What happens if you have engine noise in this range clouding the signal? How close to real time can you really get with a PC?  I doubt that it would be good enough to provide any depth accuracy.  OK, you could take a whole bunch of samples and average them to get something that might be close enough.  What about extremely shallow water?  It would be great if shallow water could be detected and the software could move the engine into a safe mode (jack plate up, tilt up a bit).  How fast will the signal come back?  I haven’t taken the time to calculate the propagation time for a sound pulse through water over, say, 6 feet (3 feet of water).  It would have to be a pretty short time.  Certainly I could deal with millisecond intervals, but microsecond intervals would more than I would expect from an SBC.  Sure, I can get beyond the 32 ms timer resolution, but Linux is a multi-tasking environment (one of the reasons I chose it), so I can’t get that much beyond it safely. What are your plans for picking the return signal out of the noise?  How are you going to identify signal reflected off of weeds, fish, etc., from the actual bottom?  Clearly some very sophisticated software could be developed to handle all of these things and provide a ton of information about what is down there, but you are talking about writing this in assembler.  Sorry for all of the questions.  You can see from my confusion why I don’t plan on implementing a depth detection function.  If you have solved the problem and would consider sharing the solution, that would be extremely interesting to me. Thanks, Tom Brown Well, I have an Ace in the Hole – a working transponder. The theory is this: send a pulse to the transponder, count how long before you get a ping back. I’d probably cheat on the D/A and A/D converters – just use 8 bits and some resistors. Of course, there will be some adjustment of detecting the returning ping, as well as how strong the transmitted pulse is. If I wanted to get fancy, I could to that automatically in the programming, but I’ll probably do it manually (I’m only interested in less than, say 100 ft)     For calibration, I can either calculate it (using speed of sound through salt water) or take a few measured depths (remember a sounding line?) and calibrate that way.    Pretty simple, really. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom

Response:

That’s kind of what I thought.  The problem I have is that I see a bunch of problems. This could be done with a sound card, but that is more complex programming than the more simple forms of data acquisition and control. Suppose you use a sound card, find a set of libraries to create the pulse and then sample for a given time period.  I would assume fast fourier transforms would be used to pick the pulse out of the noise, but what happens if the bottom is muddy?  Won’t this cause some frequency shifting?  What happens if you have engine noise in this range clouding the signal? How close to real time can you really get with a PC?  I doubt that it would be good enough to provide any depth accuracy.  OK, you could take a whole bunch of samples and average them to get something that might be close enough.  What about extremely shallow water?  It would be great if shallow water could be detected and the software could move the engine into a safe mode (jack plate up, tilt up a bit).  How fast will the signal come back?  I haven’t taken the time to calculate the propagation time for a sound pulse through water over, say, 6 feet (3 feet of water).  It would have to be a pretty short time.  Certainly I could deal with millisecond intervals, but microsecond intervals would more than I would expect from an SBC.  Sure, I can get beyond the 32 ms timer resolution, but Linux is a multi-tasking environment (one of the reasons I chose it), so I can’t get that much beyond it safely. What are your plans for picking the return signal out of the noise?  How are you going to identify signal reflected off of weeds, fish, etc., from the actual bottom?  Clearly some very sophisticated software could be developed to handle all of these things and provide a ton of information about what is down there, but you are talking about writing this in assembler.  Sorry for all of the questions.  You can see from my confusion why I don’t plan on implementing a depth detection function.  If you have solved the problem and would consider sharing the solution, that would be extremely interesting to me. Thanks, Tom Brown – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I have an Ace in the Hole – a working transponder. The theory is this: send a pulse to the transponder, count how long before you get a ping back. I’d probably cheat on the D/A and A/D converters – just use 8 bits and some resistors. Of course, there will be some adjustment of detecting the returning ping, as well as how strong the transmitted pulse is. If I wanted to get fancy, I could to that automatically in the programming, but I’ll probably do it manually (I’m only interested in less than, say 100 ft)     For calibration, I can either calculate it (using speed of sound through salt water) or take a few measured depths (remember a sounding line?) and calibrate that way.    Pretty simple, really. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

Well, I have an Ace in the Hole – a working transponder. The theory is this: send a pulse to the transponder, count how long before you get a ping back. I’d probably cheat on the D/A and A/D converters – just use 8 bits and some resistors. Of course, there will be some adjustment of detecting the returning ping, as well as how strong the transmitted pulse is. If I wanted to get fancy, I could to that automatically in the programming, but I’ll probably do it manually (I’m only interested in less than, say 100 ft)     For calibration, I can either calculate it (using speed of sound through salt water) or take a few measured depths (remember a sounding line?) and calibrate that way.    Pretty simple, really. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – LLoyd: May I ask you you are going to implement the depth sounder?  This would be a great feature, but I can’t see how it could be done with a reasonable amount of work. Thanks, Tom Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

There’s a few reasons why you might want SOW rather than SOG. One is for performance – if you put on a new prop or something, you want SOW. The TWO values will tell you what your current is, so you can better calculate fuel consumption, etc. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And i thought that’s what i wanted to know?  Speed relative to the earth and not water? Where I’m at, the St-Lawrence river has a flow of 3 to 4 mph, so if I give it just enough throttle to not move, why would i care how fast I go relative to water since I’m going nowhere? GPS will only show speed relative to the earth, not speed through the water. A paddlewheel or piton will be required for that.

Response:

I enjoyed the hell out of writing Z80 assembler a few years back. We had the actually had 256KB of memory available, via bank selecting. We were monitoring high speed data circuts which were running at speeds of 56Kb/s. Thanks for the memories. Bert Robbins

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

Actually this project is for Far Cove – Stinky already has a nice depthsounder/fishfinder and speedo. Far Cove has a very old but still working depth sounder, and a non-working knotmeter that still has a working sender. Lloyd Sumpter "Far Cove" Catalina 36 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Lloyd, that stinkpot of your’s will be well equiped by the time you’re done?  :-)  hehe Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder.

Response:

Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

Hey Lloyd, that stinkpot of your’s will be well equiped by the time you’re done?  :-)  hehe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Good for you for chosing Linux! I found the Embedded Systems people much more amenable and knowledgeable about linux than the PC crowd. There’s LOTS of SBC’s that run Linux – check out PC104s, etc. Most have Flash-disk technology so you don’t need a mechanical drive at all.    I’m looking at a similar project (although probably using a Z80-based SBC and "down to the metal" assembly-language programming). Mine is just for a knotmeter and depth sounder. My problem has been to find an inexpensive LCD display that displays two 3-digit numbers in LARGE digits (ie larger than 1/2"). I may end up going your route and using a VGA display and X just to display my two numbers!    But if you find a supplier for inexpensive LCDs, let me know! Lloyd Sumpter LSumpter Consulting Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle

Response:

And i thought that’s what i wanted to know?  Speed relative to the earth and not water? Where I’m at, the St-Lawrence river has a flow of 3 to 4 mph, so if I give it just enough throttle to not move, why would i care how fast I go relative to water since I’m going nowhere? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – GPS will only show speed relative to the earth, not speed through the water. A paddlewheel or piton will be required for that. Blue Skies, Dave At least for speed, your GPS will show it. Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle My thought is to use an SBC and a very small LCD display (perhaps 4" x 6" or so).  I don’t want a giant display or a laptop bolted to my dash. It has to look at least a little tasteful or my girlfriend will kill me.  The system would run Linux and it would have an LS120 disk drive. It would all be fairly simple and mostly off the shelf stuff. It could interface with a GPS, but I don’t want to make anything too complicated.  This is just a fun project. Further to this, I am thinking that the system could manage some of these systems automatically.  For instance, it could monitor speed, RPM and fuel consumption to manage the engine trim.  It could collect and log fairly good quality fuel efficiency data that would allow for a pretty good analysis of different props. I’m assuming that something like this doesn’t exist.  While I don’t have any plans to sell anything, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I’ll need to find or build transducers for some functions, but most are readily available.  The one I’m worried about is speed.  I would imagine that I could build something using a strain gauge to monitor pressure from the pitot tube, but it would be much easier for me if something was available that I could use directly.  I’d rather stick to the electronics and software side of it. What do you guys think?  Any ideas or opinions? — Tom Brown

Response:

Not to split hairs, but the poster stated he wanted "hull speed", I assumed he wanted to know how fast the hull was moving through the water.  There are If you give it just enough throttle to not move, you probably still have enough water moving over the rudders to maintain steerage.  However, if you are going downstream and the GPS shows you are going 3 to 4 mph you essentially have no flow over your rudders and cannot maintain steerage. I too use my GPS as  the main indicator of my speed….for the same reasons as you do.  I want to know how fast I am getting somewhere, but I also find that the speed through the water is useful too.  I can then accurately determine the current speed.  I boat in a tidal area where the water may be moving up or downstream, it is nice to know how fast the current may be pushing me before I get into a tight docking area. Blue Skies, Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – And i thought that’s what i wanted to know?  Speed relative to the earth and not water? Where I’m at, the St-Lawrence river has a flow of 3 to 4 mph, so if I give it just enough throttle to not move, why would i care how fast I go relative to water since I’m going nowhere? GPS will only show speed relative to the earth, not speed through the water. A paddlewheel or piton will be required for that. Blue Skies, Dave At least for speed, your GPS will show it. Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle My thought is to use an SBC and a very small LCD display (perhaps 4" x 6" or so).  I don’t want a giant display or a laptop bolted to my dash. It has to look at least a little tasteful or my girlfriend will kill me.  The system would run Linux and it would have an LS120 disk drive. It would all be fairly simple and mostly off the shelf stuff. It could interface with a GPS, but I don’t want to make anything too complicated.  This is just a fun project. Further to this, I am thinking that the system could manage some of these systems automatically.  For instance, it could monitor speed, RPM and fuel consumption to manage the engine trim.  It could collect and log fairly good quality fuel efficiency data that would allow for a pretty good analysis of different props. I’m assuming that something like this doesn’t exist.  While I don’t have any plans to sell anything, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I’ll need to find or build transducers for some functions, but most are readily available.  The one I’m worried about is speed.  I would imagine that I could build something using a strain gauge to monitor pressure from the pitot tube, but it would be much easier for me if something was available that I could use directly.  I’d rather stick to the electronics and software side of it. What do you guys think?  Any ideas or opinions? — Tom Brown

Response:

Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle My thought is to use an SBC and a very small LCD display (perhaps 4" x 6" or so).  I don’t want a giant display or a laptop bolted to my dash. It has to look at least a little tasteful or my girlfriend will kill me.  The system would run Linux and it would have an LS120 disk drive. It would all be fairly simple and mostly off the shelf stuff. It could interface with a GPS, but I don’t want to make anything too complicated.  This is just a fun project. Further to this, I am thinking that the system could manage some of these systems automatically.  For instance, it could monitor speed, RPM and fuel consumption to manage the engine trim.  It could collect and log fairly good quality fuel efficiency data that would allow for a pretty good analysis of different props. I’m assuming that something like this doesn’t exist.  While I don’t have any plans to sell anything, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I’ll need to find or build transducers for some functions, but most are readily available.  The one I’m worried about is speed.  I would imagine that I could build something using a strain gauge to monitor pressure from the pitot tube, but it would be much easier for me if something was available that I could use directly.  I’d rather stick to the electronics and software side of it. What do you guys think?  Any ideas or opinions? — Tom Brown

Response:

At least for speed, your GPS will show it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle My thought is to use an SBC and a very small LCD display (perhaps 4" x 6" or so).  I don’t want a giant display or a laptop bolted to my dash. It has to look at least a little tasteful or my girlfriend will kill me.  The system would run Linux and it would have an LS120 disk drive. It would all be fairly simple and mostly off the shelf stuff. It could interface with a GPS, but I don’t want to make anything too complicated.  This is just a fun project. Further to this, I am thinking that the system could manage some of these systems automatically.  For instance, it could monitor speed, RPM and fuel consumption to manage the engine trim.  It could collect and log fairly good quality fuel efficiency data that would allow for a pretty good analysis of different props. I’m assuming that something like this doesn’t exist.  While I don’t have any plans to sell anything, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I’ll need to find or build transducers for some functions, but most are readily available.  The one I’m worried about is speed.  I would imagine that I could build something using a strain gauge to monitor pressure from the pitot tube, but it would be much easier for me if something was available that I could use directly.  I’d rather stick to the electronics and software side of it. What do you guys think?  Any ideas or opinions? — Tom Brown

Response:

GPS will only show speed relative to the earth, not speed through the water. A paddlewheel or piton will be required for that. Blue Skies, Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – At least for speed, your GPS will show it. Hi Again: I’m toying with the idea of building a digital boat management system this winter.  The idea is to use an LCD display to monitor engine and boat telemetry.  It would display stuff such as: hull speed (mph) engine speed (RPM) water temperature water pressure cylinder head temperature fuel consumption (gpm) fuel level engine trim angle My thought is to use an SBC and a very small LCD display (perhaps 4" x 6" or so).  I don’t want a giant display or a laptop bolted to my dash. It has to look at least a little tasteful or my girlfriend will kill me.  The system would run Linux and it would have an LS120 disk drive. It would all be fairly simple and mostly off the shelf stuff. It could interface with a GPS, but I don’t want to make anything too complicated.  This is just a fun project. Further to this, I am thinking that the system could manage some of these systems automatically.  For instance, it could monitor speed, RPM and fuel consumption to manage the engine trim.  It could collect and log fairly good quality fuel efficiency data that would allow for a pretty good analysis of different props. I’m assuming that something like this doesn’t exist.  While I don’t have any plans to sell anything, I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. I’ll need to find or build transducers for some functions, but most are readily available.  The one I’m worried about is speed.  I would imagine that I could build something using a strain gauge to monitor pressure from the pitot tube, but it would be much easier for me if something was available that I could use directly.  I’d rather stick to the electronics and software side of it. What do you guys think?  Any ideas or opinions? — Tom Brown

Response:

You've got to be kidding!!!

Question:

Hmmm, you piqued my interest. Let’s see what you’ve got. Carl G. Craver – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. Pssss! Carl. I could send you all the images that were submitted for my site, and promptly censored by Mrs. E. Eisboch

Response:

The only time I ever went to a psychic, I turned around and walked right out the door.  She didn’t know I was coming, so I figured she couldn’t a very good psychic.  All I wanted to know was 1) a winning lottery number and 2) what was the deal with my Cobra outdrive.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. Pssss! Carl. I could send you all the images that were submitted for my site, and promptly censored by Mrs. E. Eisboch Carl, Do forget to include links to the Psychic Friends Network with the "900" phone number for those who don’t believe what a trained mechanic says is wrong with their motor! Bill Grannis, service manager

Response:

I got your e-mail from the other day. Thanks for the great links. I knew that the articles that you’ve written were sold to magazines and with them goes the copyrights, so I didn’t even bother to ask. I’m getting some pretty good ideas for my page. Most of the information is going to be pretty basic, things like trailer wiring, wheel bearings, engine maintenance and so on. I still need some photos to spruce up my page though. My main goal is to make my web site with quick download times, so I’m not going with any of the gimmicks like banners or sound. Carl G. Craver

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve thought about asking Bill if I could post his story on VROs, but Bass & Walleye Boats probably have the copyrights to it. Carl, If it was up to me, you could post all the articles, but a letter to Poole Publications for their approval is needed to be legal. Did you see the fuel gauge testing story and the latest spark plug article? Did you get the stuff I sent you a few days ago for your site? Bill Grannis, service manager

Response:

This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it.

Pssss! Carl. I could send you all the images that were submitted for my site, and promptly censored by Mrs. E. Eisboch

Response:

I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. Pssss! Carl. I could send you all the images that were submitted for my site, and promptly censored by Mrs. E. Eisboch

Carl, Do forget to include links to the Psychic Friends Network with the "900" phone number for those who don’t believe what a trained mechanic says is wrong with their motor! Bill Grannis, service manager

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Never saw the first post…sorry. How about a "voting page" so we can all quickly give a thumbs up or thumbs down in the off topic debates that rage on for days? Technical FAQ’s would be very cool.  Get-it-home tips for on-the water handling of mechanical issues would also be pretty helpful. What kinds of photos did you ask for? -Ed G

Response:

Carl, I’m a fairly new boater and I enjoy the stories of mishaps. Not looking for stories of people getting hurt but dumb mistakes to laugh at and make sure I never do. Maybe a section for safety issues discovered, such as my experience with my ruptured gas tank. A little talk about Northern boating would be nice for those of us that have a short season. Make us feel included. -Ron Before you buy.

Response:

OMC resources for the stern drives made in the 70’s and 80’s. Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Sorry, I must have missed the request.   I like the mechanical type articles in Bass and Walleye Boats.  There was a really interesting one about OMC VRO, and I have a Mercury.  :-) I also like Marcus’ diatribes on the history of various motors.   Tables of specs for various motors for multiple mfgs.   Is this a personal web site or one oriented towards a business?   del cecchi

Response:

I’ve thought about asking Bill if I could post his story on VROs, but Bass & Walleye Boats probably have the copyrights to it.

Carl, If it was up to me, you could post all the articles, but a letter to Poole Publications for their approval is needed to be legal. Did you see the fuel gauge testing story and the latest spark plug article? Did you get the stuff I sent you a few days ago for your site? Bill Grannis, service manager

Response:

I like the mechanical type articles in Bass and Walleye Boats.  There was a really interesting one about OMC VRO, and I have a Mercury.  :-) I also like Marcus’ diatribes on the history of various motors. Tables of specs for various motors for multiple mfgs. Is this a personal web site or one oriented towards a business? del cecchi

My site isn’t geared towards any company. I may have some used parts on it, but they are for making spare change only. I’ve thought about asking Bill if I could post his story on VROs, but Bass & Walleye Boats probably have the copyrights to it. Everyone is giving me some great ideas, keep them coming. I still need some photos to dress up my site. I’m going to keep the pages very simple for sake of download speed. Nothing bugs me worse than a site that downloads banners, videos, and music just for the sake of flashiness. Thanks to everyone for the help, please keep it coming, Carl G. Craver

Response:

I’d like to see a section about maintenance tips for outdrives and things like that.    Maybe a FAQ, with stuff like "What’s the highest RPM I can safely run my [engine type] for an extended time?"   Sounds cool.   I just bought my boat, so I don’t have any photos yet, but if the sight comes up I should have all kinds of groovy stuff to contribute.   (Found the paddlewheel off an old steamboat shipwreck last weekend.) -Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Chris Gattman

Response:

I’d like to see a section about maintenance tips for outdrives and things like that.    Maybe a FAQ, with stuff like "What’s the highest RPM I can safely run my [engine type] for an extended time?" Sounds cool.   I just bought my boat, so I don’t have any photos yet, but if the sight comes up I should have all kinds of groovy stuff to contribute.   (Found the paddlewheel off an old steamboat shipwreck last weekend.) -Chris

I was wondering where I left that danged paddlewheel… — Harry Krause The human race is still in beta test.

Response:

Been gone for a few weeks, most of my suggestions already hit. How about a section to post trip reports. Those of us with limited means could still read about those fortunate enough to take the cool trips. Mike – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

Naked chicks, lots of ‘em.  Especially good for pay per view advertising sites.  Okay, one studly guy purging a discharge line for Peggie. I thought about putting some links to some of my favorite web sites, but I thought it might give away my kinky tendencies.

This is better than cable… roflmao… love it!

Response:

Howdy Carl, You are finding out the real trick to web sites..original and distinct content <grin.  Coming up with the original content is the single hardest and time intensive things to do which is why we see so many, and in my opinion redundant, digest sites on the internet from boating topics to video cards and programming.  Find yourself a niche that hasn’t been filled previously and go for that.  You’ll have an instant stand out. Pictures of people’s boats, especially for those who post here, has been done already in Eisboch’s pages.  I have been assembling beginner questions, techniques, and a novice boater’s FAQ at my web site which is directed at the new boater who has a million and one basic questions, so I’d like to think that is covered (even Captain Jack recently added a similar FAQ on Eisboch’s pages). Aside from already existent advertising based pages, I always thought a "Popular Mecahnics" type of page with basic mecahnical "how-to’s" would be really useful.  Something like when people ask "How do I drill through fiberglass?"  "What is a good break-in routine for a deisel?" "Proper waxing techniques."  etc etc.  Since you have a background in engine tech, there are many natural extensions of that speciality that would be interesting and informative.  As another poster pointed out, a collection of boating stories or adventures would be fun also, but that would be tough to pull off (see below). But a note of caution, don’t reach too far.  After the pages are created, the next step is to keep them updated on a timely basis.  And that is a very time intensive task.  And don’t count on anyone else helping you out unless you are going to pay them.  Lord knows I have tried to get boat manufacturers, marina owners, writers, readers, etc to write, be interviewed, send questions, send pictures or even interesting marketing material and you get a resounding silence. Others have their lives and work responsibilities and getting a portion of their time and knowledge is not always easy.  After that, it is all up to you :-)  Then you find yourself up to 2 a.m. trying to add content and keep things under control.  A lot of fun, but at times it feels like a second job when you would rather be doing anything else (such as boating on a nice weekend ;-) Good luck with it and let me know if I can help out at all.  Keep it in perspective and it should be a fun and entertaining site to visit! Scott Have a Boating Question? The Novice Boater Resources http://www.lisaandscott.com/NoviceBoating.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

Sorry, Carl, didn’t notice the first post. Since you’ve done some good work here (for me in particular), how about a "FAQ’s for Carl" organinzed by major equipment group.  That might cut down on your typing time if you could refer folks there first. Cheapskates like me are always asking for the best place to buy XYZ item for their boat.  A list of links towards this end would help. Naked chicks, lots of ‘em.  Especially good for pay per view advertising sites.  Okay, one studly guy purging a discharge line for Peggie. Sorry if this is not what you asked for, as I said I missed the first post. Mike

Response:

Links page broken down by category would be great. Helpful hints for new boat owners. Helpful hints in buying/selling boats. — Jim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry, Carl, didn’t notice the first post. Since you’ve done some good work here (for me in particular), how about a "FAQ’s for Carl" organinzed by major equipment group.  That might cut down on your typing time if you could refer folks there first. Cheapskates like me are always asking for the best place to buy XYZ item for their boat.  A list of links towards this end would help. Naked chicks, lots of ‘em.  Especially good for pay per view advertising sites.  Okay, one studly guy purging a discharge line for Peggie. Sorry if this is not what you asked for, as I said I missed the first post. Mike

Response:

They are all the same in those years. Carl G. Craver

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Carl – think you can help me with a OMC question – I have little time to decide what to do. How compatable are the lower ends of a 150hp 1987,88,89 motor? Thanks This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

Naked chicks, lots of ‘em.  Especially good for pay per view advertising sites.  Okay, one studly guy purging a discharge line for Peggie.

I thought about putting some links to some of my favorite web sites, but I thought it might give away my kinky tendencies. Remember, clear you internet history files often ;-) Carl G. Craver

Response:

Hey Carl – think you can help me with a OMC question – I have little time to decide what to do. How compatable are the lower ends of a 150hp 1987,88,89 motor? Thanks – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This weekend, I posted a request for ideas for web site contents and photos. I’m in the process of constructing a site and would like to know what the average boater would like to see on it. I also asked for photos, maybe I was getting a bit too picky. In all I received three e-mails so far and all of them had the same information, the address of "the boats of rec.boats". Come on folks, I spend a lot of time everyday helping people out on this NG and I’m asking for a little help in return. Carl G. Craver

Response:

Knotmeter transducers: Keeping clean?

Question:

Could you please describe how a ‘dutch log’ works, I’m not familiar with this device. I’ll have to describe both, because I forget which name goes with which device. One of them (chip log?) works like this:

Actualy this is the "Dutchman" You go to the bow of the boat, and drop a chip of wood in the water. Count the number of seconds until the chip of wood passes the stern.  Using the number of seconds and the distance between where you dropped it and the stern, you can compute your speed. If you do this regularly, you keep a lookup table on your boat. The other device (dutch log?) works like this:

And this is the "Chip (or "ship") log" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You have a float tied to the end of a piece of rope.  Some distance from the float, there is a knot tied in the rope.  After that, there are knots tied at regular intervals. You throw the float overboard and let out the line as the boat moves away from the float.  When you let out the rope past the first knot, you start counting (or look at your stopwatch).  Continue to let out the rope until 10 seconds have passed. Then pull the rope back in and count the knots.  If you let out 4 knots during those 10 seconds, your say your speed is "four knots". (And, supposedly, that is why we still call the unit of speed a "knot".) In 10 seconds, you go ( 10 sec ) / ( 3600 sec/hour ) of a nautical mile at 1 nautical mile per hour, so the knots in the rope should be 1/360 nm or about 16.8 feet apart. The first knot can be any distance from the float.  You don’t count it;  it is just there to tell you when to start counting the 10 seconds. I’ve read that is called a "Dutch Log" because Dutch merchants were seen using them in the 1600’s.

Response:

You could always use a dutch log or a chip log. :) Yes, these are fun, especially with students on the boat. As someone else noted though, with a bit of practise it’s fairly easy to measure sped through the water by eye, probably to a half-knot accuracy. Could you please describe how a ‘dutch log’ works, I’m not familiar with this device.

I’ll have to describe both, because I forget which name goes with which device. One of them (chip log?) works like this: You go to the bow of the boat, and drop a chip of wood in the water. Count the number of seconds until the chip of wood passes the stern.  Using the number of seconds and the distance between where you dropped it and the stern, you can compute your speed. If you do this regularly, you keep a lookup table on your boat. The other device (dutch log?) works like this: You have a float tied to the end of a piece of rope.  Some distance from the float, there is a knot tied in the rope.  After that, there are knots tied at regular intervals. You throw the float overboard and let out the line as the boat moves away from the float.  When you let out the rope past the first knot, you start counting (or look at your stopwatch).  Continue to let out the rope until 10 seconds have passed. Then pull the rope back in and count the knots.  If you let out 4 knots during those 10 seconds, your say your speed is "four knots". (And, supposedly, that is why we still call the unit of speed a "knot".) In 10 seconds, you go ( 10 sec ) / ( 3600 sec/hour ) of a nautical mile at 1 nautical mile per hour, so the knots in the rope should be 1/360 nm or about 16.8 feet apart. The first knot can be any distance from the float.  You don’t count it;  it is just there to tell you when to start counting the 10 seconds. I’ve read that is called a "Dutch Log" because Dutch merchants were seen using them in the 1600’s.

Response:

Remove it from the inside.  I have a plug that comes with mine, the skin fitting has a non return flap on it and it can be extracted with about a pint of water coming inside.  I clean it regularly.  There is no problem.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Well, it is fouled again.  The little paddle wheel thingy, down at the bottom of the turn of my bilge has either yet another piece of sea grass on it, or another tiny barnacle has set up housekeeping in it somewhere. How do other people keep this from happening? The Pacific is way too cold here to just go over the side and brush it off… from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

You could always use a dutch log or a chip log. :) Yes, these are fun, especially with students on the boat. As someone else noted though, with a bit of practise it’s fairly easy to measure sped through the water by eye, probably to a half-knot accuracy.

Could you please describe how a ‘dutch log’ works, I’m not familiar with this device. Thanks, Klaus

Response:

In the meantime, I will just watch the water and guess my speed…. Are there any "no-moving-parts" instruments?  What problems do THEY have? I saw a clever fully mechanical device in the West Marine.  It was basically a spring scale with a disk hanging on it.  You would drag the disk in the water, and it would stretch the spring.  You could read your speed directly in knots.  It was meant for sailboats; it only went up to 10 or 15 knots.  IIRC, there was a disk for fresh water and a different size for salt water.

It’s called a "Knotstick". BTW, navy ships have a "no moving parts" knotmeter. It’s described in Bowditch. Didn’t look at it too closesly, but it works by measuring the induced current caused by having a conductor (the seawater) moving through a static magnetic field. You could always use a dutch log or a chip log. :)

Yes, these are fun, especially with students on the boat. As someone else noted though, with a bit of practise it’s fairly easy to measure sped through the water by eye, probably to a half-knot accuracy. That’s my excuse anyway. I’ve had my boat for 5 years, and the knotmeter was broken when I got it!

Response:

In the meantime, I will just watch the water and guess my speed…. Are there any "no-moving-parts" instruments?  What problems do THEY have?

I saw a description once of a device that used sonar for the knot meter.   There is a thin layer of water against the hull that is sort of getting dragged along with the boat.  If I remember correctly, this device would try to make some measurements of the boundary layer to determine your speed. The only obvious drawback was that it was really expensive. GPS will report speed over ground, which is not the same thing as speed through the water.  You would have to change how you keep your DR plot.  Of course, the risk with GPS is that you will stop keeping a DR plot, and then be hosed when the GPS receiver dies. I saw a clever fully mechanical device in the West Marine.  It was basically a spring scale with a disk hanging on it.  You would drag the disk in the water, and it would stretch the spring.  You could read your speed directly in knots.  It was meant for sailboats; it only went up to 10 or 15 knots.  IIRC, there was a disk for fresh water and a different size for salt water. You could always use a dutch log or a chip log. :)

Response:

Thanks everyone… The majority concensus (heck, it was unanimous) is to pull the transducer from the inside.  Unfortunately, two things keep me from doing this… 1.  I don’t have the plug (this could be remedied with a few $$) 2.  The transducer is in an almost completely inaccessible location, 5 feet or so below the cabin sole.  If I stand on my head, I just might be able to touch it…  but this is a pretty precarious position to be in while doing something as important as getting the plug back in the hole… with a firehose blowing out of the hole trying to stop you from getting it done. 3.  On my next haulout, I will try one of the paint solutions – they should stop the growth, although they wont stop the occasional piece of grass that gets caught. In the meantime, I will just watch the water and guess my speed…. Are there any "no-moving-parts" instruments?  What problems do THEY have? from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

We went almost an entire season before we realized the transducer could be removed from inside the boat, without sinking!  We could not go two weeks without it fouling.  The one thing we did, however, was over-tighten it when reinstalling, and breaking the fitting loose from hull caulking.  In subsequent seasons we’ve routinely pulled and cleaned it. This year in a moment of insanity I, purchased one of those little bottles of transducer anti-fouling paint, I believe it breaks down to about $10,000 a gallon.  At the risk of cutting the paint supply from 40 years worth to a mere 20, I’ve also applied  it to the "little flippy wheel" (as it’s known on our boat).  So far, since the end of April, nothing has grown on it. Good luck! Garry http://www.99main.com/~elmergw/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, it is fouled again.  The little paddle wheel thingy, down at the bottom of the turn of my bilge has either yet another piece of sea grass on it, or another tiny barnacle has set up housekeeping in it somewhere. How do other people keep this from happening? The Pacific is way too cold here to just go over the side and brush it off… from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

Bob, I use my GPS most of the time anymore..no moving parts anyway. Mike WD9EOU C-38 s/v Chute the Breeze Michigan City, IN

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks everyone… The majority concensus (heck, it was unanimous) is to pull the transducer from the inside.  Unfortunately, two things keep me from doing this… 1.  I don’t have the plug (this could be remedied with a few $$) 2.  The transducer is in an almost completely inaccessible location, 5 feet or so below the cabin sole.  If I stand on my head, I just might be able to touch it…  but this is a pretty precarious position to be in while doing something as important as getting the plug back in the hole… with a firehose blowing out of the hole trying to stop you from getting it done. 3.  On my next haulout, I will try one of the paint solutions – they should stop the growth, although they wont stop the occasional piece of grass that gets caught. In the meantime, I will just watch the water and guess my speed…. Are there any "no-moving-parts" instruments?  What problems do THEY have? from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

The paddle wheel on my transducer used to get stuck also until I discovered that by motoring in reverse for a few min. would free it up give it a try . Milton73

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks everyone… The majority concensus (heck, it was unanimous) is to pull the transducer from the inside.  Unfortunately, two things keep me from doing this… 1.  I don’t have the plug (this could be remedied with a few $$) 2.  The transducer is in an almost completely inaccessible location, 5 feet or so below the cabin sole.  If I stand on my head, I just might be able to touch it…  but this is a pretty precarious position to be in while doing something as important as getting the plug back in the hole… with a firehose blowing out of the hole trying to stop you from getting it done. 3.  On my next haulout, I will try one of the paint solutions – they should stop the growth, although they wont stop the occasional piece of grass that gets caught. In the meantime, I will just watch the water and guess my speed…. Are there any "no-moving-parts" instruments?  What problems do THEY have? from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

We used to have trouble with our paddlewheels fouling and that was why we designed the Trailing Wire Impeller transducer – for our SpeedMate knotmeters. Works well. No algae and no barnacles! David Laylin www.speedtech.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, it is fouled again.  The little paddle wheel thingy, down at the bottom of the turn of my bilge has either yet another piece of sea grass on it, or another tiny barnacle has set up housekeeping in it somewhere. How do other people keep this from happening? The Pacific is way too cold here to just go over the side and brush it off… from the wet coast, bob — (206) 221-4677    | http://staff.washington.edu/bsalnick S/V Eolian        | http://www.realityplus.com/intangible/eolian/index.html

Response:

I periodically pull mine up through the through-hole. Then I slop on a liberal amount of ‘medicated’ diaper cream…. Slime, etc. doesn’t grow well because of the antibiotics in the diaper cream. The stuff is water resistant, meaning that I need to re-slop about every month; or, immediately after a long trip. BTW my boat is a sailboat. :-)

Response:

Well, it is fouled again.  The little paddle wheel thingy, down at the bottom of the turn of my bilge has either yet another piece of sea grass on it, or another tiny barnacle has set up housekeeping in it somewhere. How do other people keep this from happening? The Pacific is way too cold here to just go over the side and brush it off…

I had that problem and had to pull it every few months from inside to clean it. Then I switched to ACP-50 bottom paint and I havn’t had it foul since. The paint just goes up to the edge of the paddle wheel opening, not on the paddles or the wheel, but with fairly frequent use, that is enough to keep it from fouling. — Al Gunther, Kingston, WA  <—- 47

Repack stuffing box in water – yeah right!

Question:

Rather than do a complete repack in the water, I would insert another ring of packing when mine wore down. I would save the total repack for when the boat was out of the water. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My advice: unless your boat has exceptionally good access to the stuffing box and plenty of room to side the nut up the shaft, leave this job for the next haulout if at all possible. I hadn’t seen the earlier posts, but I think you’re right. Our trawler had exceptionally good access and lots of room, so I decided to go for it on a Sunday afternoon.  (BTW, I had replaced the packing about 6 months ago, so I knew it wouldn’t be impacted too badly.)  I was astounded how little water came in, much less than a gallon.  Two preparation items:  (1) a large garbage bag handy to stuff into the annulus in case the water came in too fast (method pre-tested on a disconnected raw water intake hose, so I could shut the seacock if necessary); and (2) I opened the raw water intake hose into the bilge w/ the seacock fully open (2" diameter) to test the pump’s capacity and the bilge pump kept up with the flow.  I figured if a fully open 2" hole didn’t overwhelm the pump, then the opened stuffing box wouldn’t.  It all went surprisingly quickly. -Dave  Sabre 28 ‘Alcyone’

Response:

  Water pressure increases at a rate of 0.5 PSI per foot of depth. Water would come in, but it wouldn’t exactly "gush". In fact, the water flow might even help push out the old packing and rinse the Stuffing box clean.

This is assuming the flax is packed into the stuffing box log and not the nut. But on my boat, the flax is packed into the nut, so inflowing water would be working against me. -Dave

Response:

 I dont’ know how relevant this is for your problem but Bernard Moitessier described fixing a leak in his boat by diving over the side with a bag of oatmeal and stuffing the leak with handfuls of it. It expanded and served as a jury fix until he could effect serious repairs. — —                            macdiarmid There is nothing more frightening than powerful ignorance on the move. Goethe

Response:

The traditional way is to wrap the prop shaft with something on the outside to make it water proof. A line covered with neoprene pipe insulation works. I have use a line wrapped with wax impregnated cheese cloth then covered with rubber strips and more line. It is done on ships all the time. If done right you have almost no water leaking. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Forget about leaking salt water. With a SB three feet below the waterline you would have 15psi of water pressure gushing enough water to overwhelm most small bilge pumps. Good for you to get this job done and doing it the smart and safe way!   Water pressure increases at a rate of 0.5 PSI per foot of depth. Water would come in, but it wouldn’t exactly "gush". In fact, the water flow might even help push out the old packing and rinse the Stuffing box clean.   Even without a bilge pump, you would have a fairly long time to work before you accumulated enough water to be of a concern.  If your access to the stuffing box is very limited, then a water flowing in might make a miserable job even more so.  But if you have reasonable access to it, then it isn’t that big of a deal to do it in the water.   Rod McInnis

Response:

Although I agree that the water will rush in, the pressure would be more like 1.5 psi.  Just as a rule of thumb, water pressure reaches 1 atmosphere (14.8psi) at 33 feet of depth. Paul Mathews Aengineering Co. non-contact sensor design expertise see the LED FAQ at:  http://www2.whidbey.net/optoinfo/LED_FAQ.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Forget about leaking salt water. With a SB three feet below the waterline you would have 15psi of water pressure gushing enough water to overwhelm most small bilge pumps. Good for you to get this job done and doing it the smart and safe way! Bryon Kass  webmaster and  Custom Design  150 Mechanic St.  Foxboro, MA 02035  508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415  in THE ENGINE ROOM http://getit.at/engineroom Well, I read the thread a little while ago about repacking one’s stuffing box with the boat in the water.  I really appreciate everyone’s input and very useful technical details on how to do this job, as I had never repacked mine. This thread inspired me to repack it, and I figured that since she was still out of the water for winter storage I’d do it before launch.  Despite all the claims of how easy it is to do in the water, I still didn’t have the guts to try it. Good thing!  What a royal pain in the ass that job was!  Access to my SB is terrible; had to disassemble the companionway and galley cabinetry, then I had to sit in the locker under the quarterberth (which is where the batteries live).  Had to disconnect the raw water intake hose, which obstructs the SB. Almost no room to swing a wrench  on the packing nut.  Once loosened, the packing nut only had about an inch of room to slide up the shaft, the coupling was right there.  VERY difficult to dig out the old packing, equally difficult to get the new packing in.  All told, I spent over four hours on this job, contorted into a pretzel in the battery locker.  NOT something I would want to do with the boat in the water, rocking around, while salt water leaked all over my cut-up hands. My advice: unless your boat has exceptionally good access to the stuffing box and plenty of room to side the nut up the shaft, leave this job for the next haulout if at all possible. -Dave  Sabre 28 ‘Alcyone’

Response:

 Water pressure increases at a rate of 0.5 PSI per foot of depth. Water would come in, but it wouldn’t exactly "gush".

Well, it is a question of semantics, but when I (quickly) pull the knot log paddlewheel and jam in the plug, I consider the stream of water shooting into the boat "gushing"!  Even without a bilge pump, you would have a fairly long time to work before you accumulated enough water to be of a concern.

This would depend a lot on the size of the bilge. In a smaller boat it may not take that long to cause concern, even if there is no real danger. Again, if you have repacked stuffing boxes a number of times, have good access, etc it can be straightforward. The first time….on land!

Response:

Forget about leaking salt water. With a SB three feet below the waterline you would have 15psi of water pressure gushing enough water to overwhelm most small bilge pumps. Good for you to get this job done and doing it the smart and safe way!

  Water pressure increases at a rate of 0.5 PSI per foot of depth. Water would come in, but it wouldn’t exactly "gush". In fact, the water flow might even help push out the old packing and rinse the Stuffing box clean.   Even without a bilge pump, you would have a fairly long time to work before you accumulated enough water to be of a concern.  If your access to the stuffing box is very limited, then a water flowing in might make a miserable job even more so.  But if you have reasonable access to it, then it isn’t that big of a deal to do it in the water.   Rod McInnis

Response:

My advice: unless your boat has exceptionally good access to the stuffing box and plenty of room to side the nut up the shaft, leave this job for the next haulout if at all possible.

I hadn’t seen the earlier posts, but I think you’re right. Our trawler had exceptionally good access and lots of room, so I decided to go for it on a Sunday afternoon.  (BTW, I had replaced the packing about 6 months ago, so I knew it wouldn’t be impacted too badly.)  I was astounded how little water came in, much less than a gallon.  Two preparation items:  (1) a large garbage bag handy to stuff into the annulus in case the water came in too fast (method pre-tested on a disconnected raw water intake hose, so I could shut the seacock if necessary); and (2) I opened the raw water intake hose into the bilge w/ the seacock fully open (2" diameter) to test the pump’s capacity and the bilge pump kept up with the flow.  I figured if a fully open 2" hole didn’t overwhelm the pump, then the opened stuffing box wouldn’t.  It all went surprisingly quickly. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – -Dave  Sabre 28 ‘Alcyone’

Response:

Forget about leaking salt water. With a SB three feet below the waterline you would have 15psi of water pressure gushing enough water to overwhelm most small bilge pumps. Good for you to get this job done and doing it the smart and safe way! Bryon Kass   webmaster and   Custom Design   150 Mechanic St.   Foxboro, MA 02035   508-543-9068 or fax 508-543-5127, Foot yard 508-384-2415   in THE ENGINE ROOM http://getit.at/engineroom – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I read the thread a little while ago about repacking one’s stuffing box with the boat in the water.  I really appreciate everyone’s input and very useful technical details on how to do this job, as I had never repacked mine. This thread inspired me to repack it, and I figured that since she was still out of the water for winter storage I’d do it before launch.  Despite all the claims of how easy it is to do in the water, I still didn’t have the guts to try it. Good thing!  What a royal pain in the ass that job was!  Access to my SB is terrible; had to disassemble the companionway and galley cabinetry, then I had to sit in the locker under the quarterberth (which is where the batteries live).  Had to disconnect the raw water intake hose, which obstructs the SB. Almost no room to swing a wrench  on the packing nut.  Once loosened, the packing nut only had about an inch of room to slide up the shaft, the coupling was right there.  VERY difficult to dig out the old packing, equally difficult to get the new packing in.  All told, I spent over four hours on this job, contorted into a pretzel in the battery locker.  NOT something I would want to do with the boat in the water, rocking around, while salt water leaked all over my cut-up hands. My advice: unless your boat has exceptionally good access to the stuffing box and plenty of room to side the nut up the shaft, leave this job for the next haulout if at all possible. -Dave  Sabre 28 ‘Alcyone’

Response:

Well, I read the thread a little while ago about repacking one’s stuffing box with the boat in the water.  I really appreciate everyone’s input and very useful technical details on how to do this job, as I had never repacked mine. This thread inspired me to repack it, and I figured that since she was still out of the water for winter storage I’d do it before launch.  Despite all the claims of how easy it is to do in the water, I still didn’t have the guts to try it. Good thing!  What a royal pain in the ass that job was!  Access to my SB is terrible; had to disassemble the companionway and galley cabinetry, then I had to sit in the locker under the quarterberth (which is where the batteries live).  Had to disconnect the raw water intake hose, which obstructs the SB. Almost no room to swing a wrench  on the packing nut.  Once loosened, the packing nut only had about an inch of room to slide up the shaft, the coupling was right there.  VERY difficult to dig out the old packing, equally difficult to get the new packing in.  All told, I spent over four hours on this job, contorted into a pretzel in the battery locker.  NOT something I would want to do with the boat in the water, rocking around, while salt water leaked all over my cut-up hands. My advice: unless your boat has exceptionally good access to the stuffing box and plenty of room to side the nut up the shaft, leave this job for the next haulout if at all possible. -Dave  Sabre 28 ‘Alcyone’

Response:

GPS Speed Reports…hmmm.

Question:

Another thought is if it’s a sunny day, the shadow of the truck can be considered added "baggage" and this may slow you down a bit especially if the road is rough. I *like* this one a lot…think I’ll use it.  Of course, on a bright, sunny day, one travels at light speed, and baggage doesn’t matter!

It’s all relative, Harry.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy

Another victim of "selective availability".  The problem probably was the goverment turning up the error in the system(no government flames please).  Since your "error" can be as much as 500 feet when it’s turned on that would explain the variance.  Remember, the speed indication is calculated based on distance over time.  If the distance is a moving target (selective availability is not static, it’s random error) your speed will be unreliable. You could add a differential receiver but I suspect it’s not worth the trouble.  BTW, I noticed a suggestion that your tires were worn.  You’d have to lose over 2" of tread to effect your speedo by 5 mph. Also, have you noticed that everytime Sadam beats his chest the system errors go up.  Just an observation. <g — Mark Whatman http://home.att.net/~mwhatman

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Another victim of "selective availability".  The problem probably was the goverment turning up the error in the system(no government flames please).  Since your "error" can be as much as 500 feet when it’s turned on that would explain the variance.  Remember, the speed indication is calculated based on distance over time.  If the distance is a moving target (selective availability is not static, it’s random error) your speed will be unreliable. You could add a differential receiver but I suspect it’s not worth the trouble. SA can’t explain any long term errors, because it averages out the time eventually. The time given by a locked on GPS receiver never errs by a second AFIK. There are web sites that plot GPS position at a fixed site over time, so you can see SA at work. If you have a differential beacon nearby, DGPS is a dramatic improvement. In NY Harbor, my GPS locates my slip within 2 meters always, or at least any time I have checked.

What happens when you don’t check? Do you steer from down below with no windows? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Mark,         Thanks that might kinda explain it, I don’t know how the system works but the speed readout sure can be funny but only "at times".         I will pay more attention to manually setting the alt. as Dennis suggests,  but mine seems reluctant. (it’s me not the machine)         I have a well calibrated VDO electronic paddlewheel sumlog, which I have genuine confidence in, yet it "sometimes" doesn’t coincide with the gps speed readout on a long trip, always accepting the gps is over the ground, only measures speed in a straight line & not subject to currents etc. but all that said;  nevertheless.         Strangely, the "log" finishes about the same, so this week did one passage of 133 n/miles on gps, (which was about right with the chart & the routed waypoints) the VDO log read 138 yet the gps speed readings were rarely within 5% of the paddlewheel, during the passage.         It was a particularly bumpy trip, could the animated boat have any effect on the gps speed readout?         I wonder what Alice would have made of it? Karen Smith – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy Another victim of "selective availability".  The problem probably was the goverment turning up the error in the system(no government flames please).  Since your "error" can be as much as 500 feet when it’s turned on that would explain the variance.  Remember, the speed indication is calculated based on distance over time.  If the distance is a moving target (selective availability is not static, it’s random error) your speed will be unreliable. You could add a differential receiver but I suspect it’s not worth the trouble.  BTW, I noticed a suggestion that your tires were worn.  You’d have to lose over 2" of tread to effect your speedo by 5 mph. Also, have you noticed that everytime Sadam beats his chest the system errors go up.  Just an observation. <g — Mark Whatman http://home.att.net/~mwhatman

Response:

Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? —

try again, and look to see how many birds that you have locked in, if it is less than 4, you accuracy could bee off Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Mark,         Thanks that might kinda explain it, I don’t know how the system works but the speed readout sure can be funny but only "at times".         I will pay more attention to manually setting the alt. as Dennis suggests,  but mine seems reluctant. (it’s me not the machine)         I have a well calibrated VDO electronic paddlewheel sumlog, which I have genuine confidence in, yet it "sometimes" doesn’t coincide with the gps speed readout on a long trip, always accepting the gps is over the ground, only measures speed in a straight line & not subject to currents etc. but all that said;  nevertheless.         I wonder what Alice would have made of it? Karen Smith

I suspect that Alice may have asked the pussy cat, as she did for directions. Your sumlog, no matter how accurate will not likely agree precisely with the speed read out on your GPS for two reasons: Your sumlog reads speedthrough the water. Your GPS reads speed over the ground = SOG In addition your GPS is instantaneously incorrect to the extent of the SA variance during the time (about 4 seconds or so) that the GPS is reading differential in location of the vessel. For this same reason a GPS can not be used to compensate a compass because the compass reads Vessel’s heading and the GPS reads direction of vessels travel.  Seldom are the two precisely the same (after, of course correction for variation – and deviation if known).  The GPS has no way of knowing in what direction the vessel bow is pointing. — Regards,  Al Saunders, UE http://www.familytreemaker.com/users/s/a/u/Alfred-E-Saunders/ "The man who has not anything to boast of but his illustrious ancestors, is like a potato – the only good belonging to him is underground." Thomas Overbury

Response:

  <Harry K’s post snipped Another victim of "selective availability".  The problem probably was the goverment turning up the error in the system(no government flames please).  Since your "error" can be as much as 500 feet when it’s turned on that would explain the variance….. <snip

Hi Mark (and others in this thread)– One of the other things that influences the accuracy of GPS speed readout (and short term position reporting) is "multipath reception". When you’re out on the water, the sat signals are relatively "pure" and unimpeded (so the speed and position readout should be somewhat more accurate).  On land, the GPS antenna sees signals that are possibly reflected from surrounding structures and consequently may be doing calculations based on slightly delayed signals.  Z axis (altitude) errors don’t really contribute very much to the errors (what’s a few hundred feet when the sats are 500 or so miles up?). In urban areas (Phila., PA), my GPS-48 shows errors (referred to the speedo in my car) of as much as 10 MPH.  In open flat areas (NJ Pine Barrens), I usually see errors of no more than ~3 MPH (not diff. corrected).  If the antenna is inside the vehicle (e.g. on the dashboard), multipath is somewhat more of a problem due to the car’s influence.  Diff correction inland, more than 30-50 mi. from a beacon station is usually pretty iffy, in a vehicle, due to electrical noise and intervening terrain. I’ve included a chart I dl’d a while ago from the sat-nav NG tabulating the GPS error budget.  As you can see, multipath and other "natural" factors can outweigh the effects of SA by as much as 2-3:1.  "SPS" is the set of signals we "grunts" use for positioning, "PPS" are the ones used for surveying and require expensive equipment (note the velocity error figures at the end of the table).  As you can see, DGPS really knocks down the errors considerably (except maybe multipath).  My editorial comments are bracketed []: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here is the error budget as given by Yilin Zhao in "Vehicle Location and Navigation Systems", ISBN 0-89006-861-5, Artech House, page 72.                  ERROR IN METERS WITH SPS                 typical        worst case       typical DGPS clock            2-3              25                <0.5 orbit            1-2               5                <0.5 SA              30-50            100                <0.5 ephemeris        3-5              15                <0.5 ionosphere      10-15            100                <0.5 troposphere      3-5              30                <0.5 multipath        10              300                 10 receiver noise    5               15                  5 total           100              300 [kinda low?]    15 [% sureness]     95%           99.99%                95% BTW, this same book also gives velocity accuracy figures: SPS  0.5 – 2 m/s observed    [~1 - 4 mph]< PPS  0.2 m/s DGPS 0.1 m/s Both the DOD and USCG technical papers generally quote broadly similar error budgets.  The important issue to note is how anyone can assume that "turning off SA"  will yield 10-15 m accuracy (2drms ??) – 30 m under GOOD conditions is more like it!

There is more info in the post which is a compendium from several different individuals.  If anyone would like to see it in it’s entirety, I’d be glad to e-mail it to you (it’s kinda long). Regards – Ted H

Response:

Another victim of "selective availability".  The problem probably was the goverment turning up the error in the system(no government flames please).  Since your "error" can be as much as 500 feet when it’s turned on that would explain the variance.  Remember, the speed indication is calculated based on distance over time.  If the distance is a moving target (selective availability is not static, it’s random error) your speed will be unreliable. You could add a differential receiver but I suspect it’s not worth the trouble.

SA can’t explain any long term errors, because it averages out the time eventually. The time given by a locked on GPS receiver never errs by a second AFIK. There are web sites that plot GPS position at a fixed site over time, so you can see SA at work. If you have a differential beacon nearby, DGPS is a dramatic improvement. In NY Harbor, my GPS locates my slip within 2 meters always, or at least any time I have checked.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy Check the altitude.  If the altitude is going wild, set it to whatever your best guess is for the area you are doing the test.  That should take care of it.  If that’s not it, you have a defective truck and you can ship the truck to me since you don’t like defective things… Dennis Will you pay the postage? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "New Mack Daddy Ken(tm)! With Action Pimp Slap(tm)!" – Ghort ‘94

Of course, can you squeeze it into the Express Mail envelope?  Hey, when I go, I go first class!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy

Check the altitude.  If the altitude is going wild, set it to whatever your best guess is for the area you are doing the test.  That should take care of it.  If that’s not it, you have a defective truck and you can ship the truck to me since you don’t like defective things…   Dennis

Response:

Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Now and then, Aunt Slappy is just a LITTLE bit bitter." – Skippy Check the altitude.  If the altitude is going wild, set it to whatever your best guess is for the area you are doing the test.  That should take care of it.  If that’s not it, you have a defective truck and you can ship the truck to me since you don’t like defective things… Dennis

Will you pay the postage? — Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "New Mack Daddy Ken(tm)! With Action Pimp Slap(tm)!" – Ghort ‘94

Response:

Hi Harry: If your tires are worn down or there is less pressure in the tires, the speedometer would indicate higher than previously at the same actual speed as the tires turn times more per given "distance".    I’d trust the GPS.   BTW, I believe also most cars speedo’s are set a few percent high for safety and possibly insurance reasons. Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions?

– Best regards, Norman Hirsch                   Phone: 212-304-9660         NH&A                                Fax:   212-304-9759 New York, NY 10034 USA          URL: http://www.nha.com

Response:

Another thought is if it’s a sunny day, the shadow of the truck can be considered added "baggage" and this may slow you down a bit especially if the road is rough. Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions?

– Best regards, Norman Hirsch                   Phone: 212-304-9660         NH&A                                Fax:   212-304-9759 New York, NY 10034 USA          URL: http://www.nha.com

Response:

Another thought is if it’s a sunny day, the shadow of the truck can be considered added "baggage" and this may slow you down a bit especially if the road is rough.

I *like* this one a lot…think I’ll use it.  Of course, on a bright, sunny day, one travels at light speed, and baggage doesn’t matter! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Out of curiosity, I hooked my Garmin 126 up in the truck to measure an "as the crow flies" distance from one point to another. Along the way, I noted the GPS "speedo" read 4-5 miles an hour *less* than the truck speedo. My previous GPS, a Garmin 75, matched the truck speedo almost perfectly at all speeds. I believe the truck speedo is reasonably accurate. I’ve "calibrated" it on some measured miles. I do have the GPS set to miles, not knots. Any suggestions? — Best regards, Norman Hirsch                   Phone: 212-304-9660 NH&A                            Fax:   212-304-9759 New York, NY 10034 USA          URL: http://www.nha.com

– Harry Krause EMAIL from newsgroup? Remove -nospam from return address – - – - – - – - – - "Show’s over.  Go away." — Yakko Warner

Response:

GPS vs. Fishfiner speed

Question:

<Snipped Just out of curiousity, what have you found the fish to do when faced with a heavy current, such as a tide rip ? Do they fight it to stay in place over the bottom, waiting for the bait to flow past in the current, or do they hang out on the fringe of the rip, where the current is less and dart in and out the rip for the passing bait ?

Actually, I troll in the deep blue sea.  Mostly 500 to 1,500 fathoms. Hardly any chance of drawing a fish up from the bottom…  What I actually look for is upwelling of cold water, so my water temperature reading and if the water isn’t too rough, you can actually see the upwelling.  When you troll along that cold water, there’s a good chance that there will be tunas in there and behind it marlin.  Tunas prefer the cold water, so when the water temp drops from 80 degrees to 75, I try to determine how big this upwelling is and troll around it.   Once in a great while, we’ll go out to one of the sea mounts where the cold water is forced up to the surface.  Only problem is, the closest seamount is about 100 miles from harbor.   Anyway, to the original poster, yes, it’s normal to have the paddlewheel and the gps indicate different speeds because of the different things they measure. Agreed, but not in the context of how the poster presented his facts – In his case, we can say that there was no current effect as the two read the same and were both accurate up until 40 mph at which point the paddlewheel went haywire.

Sounds as though the paddlewheel wasn’t located in the best place possible.  Either that, or the knotmeter itself is only good to 40 mph. Wonder if he blew compressed air on it out of the water if he could get it to read above 40?  Mine is fairly accurate right up to my top speed of 45 knots.  It’s thru-hull mounted about 1/4 distance from the stern and about half way between the chine and keel and half way between the closest strakes.   I determined the location by running the boat at planing speeds and looking at the water coming out from under the transom.  There were only two areas with clear water under my boat and on one side, I mounted the transducer for the recorder and on the other, I mounted the speed and temp transducer.  When you punch a nearly 2" hole in your hull, you want to make sure it’s a one-shot deal.   — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Dennis

Response:

So where does the "friction in the paddlewheel shaft" or "less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel" come into the calculation?  That’s the aspect where I am confused.

Here’s the simple explanation:  The paddlewheel provides a crude estimate of speed.  It’s pretty repeatable but not very linear.  Trying to assess all of the possible sources of error for a paddlewheel speedo is like attempting to quantify the error when someone tells you "it’s just a hop, skip, and a jump" from here. Regards,   Fred

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading. Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net Say you were at a certain rpm and was doing 5 knots over water (paddlewheel) going with the current, but 7 knots over ground (gps). The difference, excluding other factors such as wind, is your current. You turn around on a reciprocal course (heading into the current) and set your throttles to keep you at 7 knots (gps).  Chances are, you are now doing 9 knots over water (paddlewheel).

Ahh, but in your earlier post you don’t mention changing rpms, you said to "run the boat on the reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel speeds" If you are running at max rpm with the current, you can’t increase rpms when you turn around to keep the sog the same on the gps. If you are looking to find current speed, isn’t it easier to just run the same rpms against and with current and average the gps sog ? You don’t even need a paddlewheel speedo for that. — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t think I am underestimating the effect of current, but I think you are getting confused with water moving against a fixed object and water moving against a floating object. Let’s for sake of discussion, call the current speed 5 knots. Anchor your boat and read your paddlewheel speedo – it’ll read 5 knots as the water rushes past it, right ? Now start the engine, put it in forward and apply enough throttle to just take some of the tension of the anchor line. Your speedo will still read 5 knots because that in fact is how fast your are travelling thru the water. (SOG is 0) Now, pull up the anchor and turn the boat so it is travelling with the current, use the same throttle setting and the speedo will report 5 knots again because you are still moving thru the water at 5 knots (SOG is 10, so be careful of those ears popping or boiling blood) Still disbelieving ? OK, now still travelling with the current, turn the engine off. The speedo will read ZERO because you are not moving thru the water. So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net …but if you’re going upstream into a 5 knot current (ignoring all other factors for the sake of argument) at 6 knots sog, your paddlewheel should be reading 11 knots.  Agreed?  Remember, we’re ignoring things like wind, etc. Now, you turn around and go downstream at the same 6 knots sog.  What’s your speed through water?  I would guess 1 knot. So, you take the average of the two water speeds, 6 knots and you will see that it matches your sog. As you can see, we’re both right.  It’s just how you look at the problem.

Agreed. For me, constant speed through water is most important when trolling, however, if I’m not going anywhere or making little movement over ground, I need to change lures and speed up or troll in a different direction.  So, having both gps and paddlewheel information is very important to me.

Just out of curiousity, what have you found the fish to do when faced with a heavy current, such as a tide rip ? Do they fight it to stay in place over the bottom, waiting for the bait to flow past in the current, or do they hang out on the fringe of the rip, where the current is less and dart in and out the rip for the passing bait ? Anyway, to the original poster, yes, it’s normal to have the paddlewheel and the gps indicate different speeds because of the different things they measure.

Agreed, but not in the context of how the poster presented his facts – In his case, we can say that there was no current effect as the two read the same and were both accurate up until 40 mph at which point the paddlewheel went haywire. — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

Blake said: So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — So where does the "friction in the paddlewheel shaft" or "less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel" come into the calculation?  That’s the aspect where I am confused.

If the shaft/wheel has too much friction, it won’t spin at full speed. Aerated water won’t turn it at full speed either. At least that’s the claim.

Response:

<Snipped gps. If you are looking to find current speed, isn’t it easier to just run the same rpms against and with current and average the gps sog ? You don’t even need a paddlewheel speedo for that. — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Actually, all you really need to do is take the difference of the two readings and that should give you a very good idea of the speed of the current.  Without both, you’d definitely have to do a reciprocal course at the same rpm to determine the current’s speed.   Having both is the way to go, at least for somebody who can make use of that information.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Getting away from the scientific side of calculating sog and speed thru the water, anybody have any guesses as to what the posted speed limit on the waterways are based on ? Speed over ground or speed thru the water ? Assume that wake size is not an issue (I know, in most cases it is) — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net your speed will be clocked by radar so what you are doing over water is irrelevant.  Most officers will give you 10% to account for current and wind.  If they don’t it could make for an interresting court case. — Mark Whatman http://home.att.net/~mwhatman

I also have to wonder how they can make a legitimate case, when boat speedometers are notoriously innacurate. On land, most states have to give you 5 MPH to allow for speedometer accuracy. In my state (PA), the cops usually give to 10 MPH, just so there is no question if, and when it comes to court. There have been cases of tickets being thrown out because the accuracy of the measuring instrument could not be verified. It is much easier to prove a case of 25 MPH over the speed limit, than 5. With boats, it will be tougher yet. Were you radared from land or another boat? What was the influence of wind or current? If the speed limit is 40 MPH, and you have a speedometer that reads 5 mph slow, and you are going with a 5 MPH current, you could be doing 50 MPH in reference to land, even though you were, in good faith, running at what you thought, was 40 MPH. Food for thought… Dave

Response:

Getting away from the scientific side of calculating sog and speed thru the water, anybody have any guesses as to what the posted speed limit on the waterways are based on ? Speed over ground or speed thru the water ? Assume that wake size is not an issue (I know, in most cases it is) — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

Getting away from the scientific side of calculating sog and speed thru the water, anybody have any guesses as to what the posted speed limit on the waterways are based on ? Speed over ground or speed thru the water ? Assume that wake size is not an issue (I know, in most cases it is) — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

your speed will be clocked by radar so what you are doing over water is irrelevant.  Most officers will give you 10% to account for current and wind.  If they don’t it could make for an interresting court case. — Mark Whatman http://home.att.net/~mwhatman

Response:

Blake said: So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — So where does the "friction in the paddlewheel shaft" or "less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel" come into the calculation?  That’s the aspect where I am confused.

In my low speed examples, it wouldn’t, but in the orignal posters example, either friction or turbulence caused his paddlewheel speedo to stop measuring the speed thru the water accurately at 40 mph. Up until that point it was doing ok, as it matched up with his GPS. If it were something like a current factor, the differenece would have shown up over all speeds — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading. Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Say you were at a certain rpm and was doing 5 knots over water (paddlewheel) going with the current, but 7 knots over ground (gps). The difference, excluding other factors such as wind, is your current. You turn around on a reciprocal course (heading into the current) and set your throttles to keep you at 7 knots (gps).  Chances are, you are now doing 9 knots over water (paddlewheel).

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading. Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power Perhaps Blake is underestimating the effect of the current in his reply.  On my boat it’s common to see readings of 8 knots on the paddle-wheel log and only 4 knots on the GPS when running against a strong current. Theoretically, If the boat slowed down to where it made no SOG at all , the paddlewheel would still be turning like crazy and show 4 knots. Speed through the water’s surface and speed over ground (or velocity made good) can be quite different. Recently shot through the Tacoma Narrows on a strong flood. The paddle wheel log showed 8 knots, but the GPS registered almost 13! I thought my ears were going to pop or my blood start to boil (surely man was not meant to travel at such a torrid pace in a boat)  :-) I don’t think I am underestimating the effect of current, but I think you are getting confused with water moving against a fixed object and water moving against a floating object. Let’s for sake of discussion, call the current speed 5 knots. Anchor your boat and read your paddlewheel speedo – it’ll read 5 knots as the water rushes past it, right ? Now start the engine, put it in forward and apply enough throttle to just take some of the tension of the anchor line. Your speedo will still read 5 knots because that in fact is how fast your are travelling thru the water. (SOG is 0) Now, pull up the anchor and turn the boat so it is travelling with the current, use the same throttle setting and the speedo will report 5 knots again because you are still moving thru the water at 5 knots (SOG is 10, so be careful of those ears popping or boiling blood) Still disbelieving ? OK, now still travelling with the current, turn the engine off. The speedo will read ZERO because you are not moving thru the water. So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

…but if you’re going upstream into a 5 knot current (ignoring all other factors for the sake of argument) at 6 knots sog, your paddlewheel should be reading 11 knots.  Agreed?  Remember, we’re ignoring things like wind, etc.   Now, you turn around and go downstream at the same 6 knots sog.  What’s your speed through water?  I would guess 1 knot.   So, you take the average of the two water speeds, 6 knots and you will see that it matches your sog.   As you can see, we’re both right.  It’s just how you look at the problem.   For me, constant speed through water is most important when trolling, however, if I’m not going anywhere or making little movement over ground, I need to change lures and speed up or troll in a different direction.  So, having both gps and paddlewheel information is very important to me.   Anyway, to the original poster, yes, it’s normal to have the paddlewheel and the gps indicate different speeds because of the different things they measure.

Response:

Blake said: So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo —

So where does the "friction in the paddlewheel shaft" or "less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel" come into the calculation?  That’s the aspect where I am confused.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading. Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power Perhaps Blake is underestimating the effect of the current in his reply.  On my boat it’s common to see readings of 8 knots on the paddle-wheel log and only 4 knots on the GPS when running against a strong current. Theoretically, If the boat slowed down to where it made no SOG at all , the paddlewheel would still be turning like crazy and show 4 knots. Speed through the water’s surface and speed over ground (or velocity made good) can be quite different. Recently shot through the Tacoma Narrows on a strong flood. The paddle wheel log showed 8 knots, but the GPS registered almost 13! I thought my ears were going to pop or my blood start to boil (surely man was not meant to travel at such a torrid pace in a boat)  :-) I don’t think I am underestimating the effect of current, but I think you are getting confused with water moving against a fixed object and water moving against a floating object. Let’s for sake of discussion, call the current speed 5 knots. Anchor your boat and read your paddlewheel speedo – it’ll read 5 knots as the water rushes past it, right ? Now start the engine, put it in forward and apply enough throttle to just take some of the tension of the anchor line. Your speedo will still read 5 knots because that in fact is how fast your are travelling thru the water. (SOG is 0) Now, pull up the anchor and turn the boat so it is travelling with the current, use the same throttle setting and the speedo will report 5 knots again because you are still moving thru the water at 5 knots (SOG is 10, so be careful of those ears popping or boiling blood) Still disbelieving ? OK, now still travelling with the current, turn the engine off. The speedo will read ZERO because you are not moving thru the water. So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading. Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power Perhaps Blake is underestimating the effect of the current in his reply.  On my boat it’s common to see readings of 8 knots on the paddle-wheel log and only 4 knots on the GPS when running against a strong current. Theoretically, If the boat slowed down to where it made no SOG at all , the paddlewheel would still be turning like crazy and show 4 knots. Speed through the water’s surface and speed over ground (or velocity made good) can be quite different. Recently shot through the Tacoma Narrows on a strong flood. The paddle wheel log showed 8 knots, but the GPS registered almost 13! I thought my ears were going to pop or my blood start to boil (surely man was not meant to travel at such a torrid pace in a boat)  :-)

I don’t think I am underestimating the effect of current, but I think you are getting confused with water moving against a fixed object and water moving against a floating object. Let’s for sake of discussion, call the current speed 5 knots. Anchor your boat and read your paddlewheel speedo – it’ll read 5 knots as the water rushes past it, right ? Now start the engine, put it in forward and apply enough throttle to just take some of the tension of the anchor line. Your speedo will still read 5 knots because that in fact is how fast your are travelling thru the water. (SOG is 0) Now, pull up the anchor and turn the boat so it is travelling with the current, use the same throttle setting and the speedo will report 5 knots again because you are still moving thru the water at 5 knots (SOG is 10, so be careful of those ears popping or boiling blood) Still disbelieving ? OK, now still travelling with the current, turn the engine off. The speedo will read ZERO because you are not moving thru the water. So back to my point, if the rpms while in gear, are kept constant, the paddlewheel speedo will report identical speeds regardless of the boat’s direction relative to the current direction and you don’t average those out, you average your SOG from the GPS to come up with a number that you can compare to the paddlewheel speedo — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

The GPS gives you SOG (Speed over Ground) while the Fishrecorder gives you Speed through the water.

Response:

Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current.

Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading.  

Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power — Reply if needed Blake.Marriner at worldnet.att.net

Response:

You also need to keep in mind the GPS figures speed over actual ground covered. Go in a circle at 30 mph and you won’t read 30 mph on the GPS. Need to make sure you have a straight line. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current. Don’t you mean to say average the two GPS readings. The speed thru water will be the same regardless of current. When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading.   Up to a point, which is speed/water turbulence related. I think the orignal poster found that point. Either friction in the paddlewheel shaft that it spin on or less than solid water hitting the paddlewheel is most likely the cause of his reading so much lower than the GPS at those higher speeds. If it were current, the gap would have been the same for all readings from idle to full power

Perhaps Blake is underestimating the effect of the current in his reply.  On my boat it’s common to see readings of 8 knots on the paddle-wheel log and only 4 knots on the GPS when running against a strong current. Theoretically, If the boat slowed down to where it made no SOG at all , the paddlewheel would still be turning like crazy and show 4 knots. Speed through the water’s surface and speed over ground (or velocity made good) can be quite different. Recently shot through the Tacoma Narrows on a strong flood. The paddle wheel log showed 8 knots, but the GPS registered almost 13! I thought my ears were going to pop or my blood start to boil (surely man was not meant to travel at such a torrid pace in a boat)  :-)

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Your GPS should be accurate to within 1/10 of a mile an hour. Alan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just wondered if anyone ever put there GPS unit up against there fishfinder to see how accurate the speed between the 2 were.  I didn’t think that there would be "too" much difference between the two until I tried it. ( Wish I had know about this when I was searching for the right prop for my boat.)  Seems that my fish finder ( Bottom LIne Tournament) was right on nose with the GPS until 40 mph, then the fish finder went all to hell.  After that the GPS was reading 6 mph faster then the Bottom line. At the top end the Bottom line stopped going up and the GPS kept climbing until there was a 9 mph difference.  Who do I believe?  The GPS is a 12 channle Garmin unit. Is it that you cannot spin the little "waterwheel" fast enough at the top end to be accurate? Thanks Todd Todd Sturm 1998 Chevy  2500HD 4×4                      1988 21′ Pursuit CC 350/4L80E/14 Bolt / 3.73’s W/ Locker    1998 225hp Johnson Ocean Runner 3" Lift / 32" BFG MT’s / Warn M8000 MTU Fourwheelers

Response:

Keep in mind that the paddle wheel knotmeter measures water speed.  The gps measures speed over ground.  To do a fair test, you need to run the boat on a reciprocal course and average the two paddlewheel measurements to cancel out the effect of the current.   When I adjust for the current, my paddlewheel reading is very close to the gps reading.  Having both on the boat is helpful.  The difference between the two is how fast the current is running.  Sometimes, this information is good to know.

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Single Screw (engine) Handling and wheel/prop design

Question:

Although I fully agree, that if the changes made, by the original poster of this thread have made life easier for him when handling his boat astern, and this is good…..that mayhaps he is focusing too much on the tendencies of a single, fixed pitch propellor, in the negative, and not enough on ALL the factors involved with this set-up, and how they can be used to his Otnmbrd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Why would anyone want to argue with success?  If it works, great!

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Although I fully agree, that if the changes made, by the original poster of this thread have made life easier for him when handling his boat astern, and this is good…..that mayhaps he is focusing too much on the tendencies of a single,

Ahem…I don’t think I’m focusing on anything too much at all. I am focusing only on logic. Blame my formal education on Johns Hopkins. :^) I bought a boat with an unknown audit trail that performed poorly. My research showed that some changes to the wheel were made in both pitch and diameter. My experience showed that altering that wheel characteristics provided relatively significant benefits. I am happy with those results and only wish to share them with others who might experience a similar situation. your mileage may vary of course.

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Why would anyone want to argue with success?  If it works, great! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The hell with the thin ice. This actually worked EXTREMELY well for me regardless the reason. I still say that it is a good idea to avoid a high pitch for a single engine inboard boat. Went out again tonight and had an excellent docking experience as before.        Over the Winter, I did a lot of research on wheel designs. What I        came up with is that diameter plus pitch is theoretically the        same as long as you keep the total equal (add 1" pitch, you can        take 1" off the diameter). Further, if you go from 3 blade to 4        blade, you can compensate by decreasing either/both diameter &        pitch. All theoretical… Theoretically you’re on extremely thin ice, especially with the "sideways paddlewheel" effect. These various rules of thumb sometimes do have reasonable ranges of applicability, so you’re not necessarily wrong in using them. But let’s not give propeller "theory" a bad name… — http://www.well.com/~pk/fishmeal.html                                               -"Call me Fishmeal"-

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       Over the Winter, I did a lot of research on wheel designs. What I        came up with is that diameter plus pitch is theoretically the        same as long as you keep the total equal (add 1" pitch, you can        take 1" off the diameter). Further, if you go from 3 blade to 4        blade, you can compensate by decreasing either/both diameter &        pitch. All theoretical… Theoretically you’re on extremely thin ice, especially with the "sideways paddlewheel" effect. These various rules of thumb sometimes do have reasonable ranges of applicability, so you’re not necessarily wrong in using them. But let’s not give propeller "theory" a bad name… — http://www.well.com/~pk/fishmeal.html                                               -"Call me Fishmeal"-

Response:

The hell with the thin ice. This actually worked EXTREMELY well for me regardless the reason. I still say that it is a good idea to avoid a high pitch for a single engine inboard boat. Went out again tonight and had an excellent docking experience as before. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –        Over the Winter, I did a lot of research on wheel designs. What I        came up with is that diameter plus pitch is theoretically the        same as long as you keep the total equal (add 1" pitch, you can        take 1" off the diameter). Further, if you go from 3 blade to 4        blade, you can compensate by decreasing either/both diameter &        pitch. All theoretical… Theoretically you’re on extremely thin ice, especially with the "sideways paddlewheel" effect. These various rules of thumb sometimes do have reasonable ranges of applicability, so you’re not necessarily wrong in using them. But let’s not give propeller "theory" a bad name… — http://www.well.com/~pk/fishmeal.html                                               -"Call me Fishmeal"-

Response:

While I would not call it a paddle wheel effect it is true that propellors do have a tendency to make the boat turn one way or the other. The rules of thumb given on pitch will not really work. This requires calculation. What you can say as definite is that sacrificing diameter unnecessarily and trying to increase pitch to compensate is very inefficient. Your basic limits on diameter relate to the physical limits of room to put it and on keeping the tip speed low enough to avoid cavitation. You don’t want to get into a situation where you are going less than the ideal calculated diameter or more than the ideal pitch. Particularly don’t listen to anyone who tells you to "add more pitch to keep the engine rpm down". This kills engines. Use your throttle to keep the rpm in the range it should be. Also bear in mind that trying to use increased pitch to compensate for smaller than ideal diameter tends to make the boat "leap" forward and aft when you shift and can make it very difficult to dock easily. Tom MacNaughton http://www.macnaughtongroup.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –       Over the Winter, I did a lot of research on wheel designs. What I       came up with is that diameter plus pitch is theoretically the       same as long as you keep the total equal (add 1" pitch, you can       take 1" off the diameter). Further, if you go from 3 blade to 4       blade, you can compensate by decreasing either/both diameter &       pitch. All theoretical… Theoretically you’re on extremely thin ice, especially with the "sideways paddlewheel" effect. These various rules of thumb sometimes do have reasonable ranges of applicability, so you’re not necessarily wrong in using them. But let’s not give propeller "theory" a bad name… — http://www.well.com/~pk/fishmeal.html                                              -"Call me Fishmeal"-

Response:

I am a (proud) owner of a Uniflite with a single inboard engine. When I first got this boat, I had a heck of a time handling backing up because it would not back up straight but rather turn to the starboard. It has a left hand prop (wheel). Over the Winter, I did a lot of research on wheel designs. What I came up with is that diameter plus pitch is theoretically the same as long as you keep the total equal (add 1" pitch, you can take 1" off the diameter). Further, if you go from 3 blade to 4 blade, you can compensate by decreasing either/both diameter & pitch. All theoretical of course and no research to back me up. Also, cupping vs. no cupping of the wheel affects performance as well. If you read Chapman’s about single screw handling, it will describe the effects of left hand vs. right hand wheel. My Uniflite had been almost impossible to back up because it would ALWAYS turn hard right starboard I changed my wheel this year. I Increase my diameter by 2", decreased the pitch by 2", went to non-cupped wheel, and went from 3 blade to 4 blade. The boat now actually backs up a true reverse (no turning). Further, my cruising speed has improved quite a bit. If you think about it, a high pitch does has a sideways paddlewheel tendency and I think that this is what caused all my previous performance (in docking) problems. The result to me is that my boat now handles like a dream in comparison to before the changes. My conclusion is that pitch should be kept to a minimum (vs. diameter) for a single screw vessel. Moving the stern is done in forward gear by changing the rudder angle. Back up, stop when your stern is not aligned, adjust your rudder angle & bump forward throttle, then back up again. May others benefit from what I have documented and may others more knowledgable than I pitch in and correct and/or improve upon what I have said.

Response:

checking in

Question:

Hi mare, Hope you’re feeling better real soon… Colds are awful… :( Grace – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi evryone,  I have posted some stuff in the last week but zippo is showing up on my server.  Well, here I am again.  Keep on keepin’ on… :-) I have had the worst cold of my whole life.  Even worse thatn when I was homeless at 17!  (many years ago)  I am sitting here with a glass of cognac hoping that the alcohol will dull the cilia in my throat and bronchia.  I am -really- struggling with this…yechhhhh… Though my posts have not shown up (gad, I hope I really posted them…diss is a pain in the *ss sometimes) it looks as though RC, Grace, Trinity, Saltwater and all others are doing okay.  I’ll talk to ya’ later, ‘kay? coughing and hacking, mare

Response:

Hi evryone,  I have posted some stuff in the last week but zippo is showing up on my server.  Well, here I am again.  Keep on keepin’ on… :-) I have had the worst cold of my whole life.  Even worse thatn when I was homeless at 17!  (many years ago)  I am sitting here with a glass of cognac hoping that the alcohol will dull the cilia in my throat and bronchia.  I am -really- struggling with this…yechhhhh… Though my posts have not shown up (gad, I hope I really posted them…diss is a pain in the *ss sometimes) it looks as though RC, Grace, Trinity, Saltwater and all others are doing okay.  I’ll talk to ya’ later, ‘kay? coughing and hacking, mare

Response:

posted/mailed Hi evryone,  I have posted some stuff in the last week but zippo is showing up on my server.  Well, here I am again.  Keep on keepin’ on… :-) I have had the worst cold of my whole life.  Even worse thatn when I was homeless at 17!  (many years ago)  I am sitting here with a glass of cognac hoping that the alcohol will dull the cilia in my throat and bronchia.  I am -really- struggling with this…yechhhhh…

If that doesn’t work try nyquil. I doubt it’s all that miraculous as a cold drug but it does _really_ bizarre things to my head so I love it! :) Though my posts have not shown up (gad, I hope I really posted them…diss is a pain in the *ss sometimes) it looks as though RC, Grace, Trinity, Saltwater and all others are doing okay.  I’ll talk to ya’ later, ‘kay? coughing and hacking, mare

Yep, you posted this one at least. Sometimes I think the net is a way to keep us perpetually confused about our reality. Did I post that? Did I say that? Where are all the other posts? Who is it really who is sending me mail? *hee hee* Maybe _that’s_ why we all participate so well here. We are just working with machine induced dissociation and we are all pros at that!! Rainbow Colors (Jill) —      I am in the process of becoming, so this space is blank.

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Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

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thinking of you phoenix — . – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Sending all kinds of whatever is possibly "enough" of whatever it turns out to be that is what matters in the matter. W/all my heart – Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Dear jane and embies and all – Let’s all make a string of lifesavers favorite colors/colours – flavors/flavours and plait them together into a raft and go sailing and floating where seas are rough but we ride together in the sweetness or sourness or creamy blend w/extra bags w/us to replace pieces as they melt in oceanwater and to feed ourselves when need arises singing above are sea birds who watch us as we travel and lead us to land when the time is right Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

Response:

Anyone else get sad at reading all the names from the thread? There are so many that I miss whose names appear earlier on. Where did they go I wonder? jane – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m stringing scutterbotch ones in a long line, and then I’ll start on orange and lemon and lime ones. Pretty! Gotta eat one now and again too. Beauty this is a beautiful idea. Embies, are you lining up some to string too? What colours?  Stringing, stringing, nibbling and stringing…. jane Dear jane and embies and all – Let’s all make a string of lifesavers favorite colors/colours – flavors/flavours and plait them together into a raft and go sailing and floating where seas are rough but we ride together in the sweetness or sourness or creamy blend w/extra bags w/us to replace pieces as they melt in oceanwater and to feed ourselves when need arises singing above are sea birds who watch us as we travel and lead us to land when the time is right Beauty. Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

Response:

What  a lovely memory, beautyfriend. I like this happy story. jane – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I forgot to say!!! When I was a little girl, my favorite flavor was B*tter R*m (like scutterbotch), and my grmthr used to get my sstr and me bags of candies to have on a steamboat we always used to ride together, and my step-gr-fthr was lockmaster at one of the locks we rode through, so he could stand on the dock and wave hello, and it was soooo fun – and we always had peanuts in the shell, too. Well, I would always have B*tter R*m ones and my sstr would have 5 flavors – or maybe I would, too, and, yes, maybe she would have wintergreen or something. I can’t remember – and maybe both had those treacly lollies called S*gar D*dd*es or maybe packs of S*gar Babies or Choc. Babies, or I can’t even remember all the good things we had, all in a brown paper sack apiece – and – the boat was a paddlewheel steamer – and it played calliope music, all the really old-timey river pieces. But so that wasn’t a rough ocean voyage at all, but it did give me some early experience w/lifesavers, and I guess some indeas about what they might be good for someday. Beauty. I’m stringing scutterbotch ones in a long line, and then I’ll start on orange and lemon and lime ones. Pretty! Gotta eat one now and again too. Beauty this is a beautiful idea. Embies, are you lining up some to string too? What colours?  Stringing, stringing, nibbling and stringing…. jane Dear jane and embies and all – Let’s all make a string of lifesavers favorite colors/colours – flavors/flavours and plait them together into a raft and go sailing and floating where seas are rough but we ride together in the sweetness or sourness or creamy blend w/extra bags w/us to replace pieces as they melt in oceanwater and to feed ourselves when need arises singing above are sea birds who watch us as we travel and lead us to land when the time is right Beauty. Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

Response:

check three. another week down. heh, that’s got meaning. rebuild yourselves well. <grim smile embies, without personal peace, hoping for their work to bring change. p.s. if anyone in NY knows about their laws for owing hospitals $ that they honestly can’t pay, would you please let us know?  there are specific laws in RI, but i don’t know about NY and neither do the ppl who are supposed to be helping us. a shame, that. i was watching tv the other night, and a character who owed money to loan sharks said, "you can’t get bl”d from a stone." to which another character replied, " yeah, but they can get bl”d from you." <smile <yes, that was her attempt to lighten the mood. i think she ought to get her mood adjusted. :P  <i’ll squeal on her, she was watching "angel" which is the spin-off from "buffy the vampire slayer". she has interesting taste in television. at least we’re all more verbal, that’s progress! :P <and bickering, that’s something else, no? check two.

Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Hi Embie, The Brat

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – check three. another week down. heh, that’s got meaning. rebuild yourselves well. <grim smile embies, without personal peace, hoping for their work to bring change. p.s. if anyone in NY knows about their laws for owing hospitals $ that they honestly can’t pay, would you please let us know?  there are specific laws in RI, but i don’t know about NY and neither do the ppl who are supposed to be helping us. a shame, that. i was watching tv the other night, and a character who owed money to loan sharks said, "you can’t get bl”d from a stone." to which another character replied, " yeah, but they can get bl”d from you." <smile <yes, that was her attempt to lighten the mood. i think she ought to get her mood adjusted. :P  <i’ll squeal on her, she was watching "angel" which is the spin-off from "buffy the vampire slayer". she has interesting taste in television. at least we’re all more verbal, that’s progress! :P <and bickering, that’s something else, no? check two. Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Hi Embie, The Brat

hi <grins thankx! we were just thinking how you make us miss some of the best parts of our best friend. she would fight you for your name. ;)  but that’s not the only reason. you have her humor, in your way that you keep it. it’s just vaguely familiar, happily. i’m glad to see you around lately. all of yours actually. peas, embies, who did not sleep, so if is not writing crazy, wonders why. ;) <they’re gonna try and make me try. they just make me send these check in’s first. kinda like making a contract, but i say it’s not binding. *harumph* :P ‘night brat (that’s what we would say to her. might not be appropriate. sides, she’s d’brat anyway. night though. ;) Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Dear embies – First: I am *not* meaning to minimize what you say – that you are feeling as if you are taking, taking, taking but not giving. I don’t think many people here think of you in that way. But, let’s say it were true, for the sake of argument. Let’s say you were taking lots and lots and lots and not giving much at all. Look at it this way: if you are taking, it is giving a lot of people an opportunity to give. People need to give in order to feel needed, to feel as if they have done something worthy. We need to give one another the chance to give, and there is only one way to do that – and that is to reach out when we need, and to take what we are offered. So taking and giving are parts of the same grand gesture that grows good in the world – Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – check two. i just want to thank you all for these times, those times – you know, when you don’t begrudge that i am taking more than i am giving. it’s, well, it’s big. ok, that’s overwhelming. must flee. thankds. thanks. really. embies if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

check two. i just want to thank you all for these times, those times – you know, when you don’t begrudge that i am taking more than i am giving. it’s, well, it’s big. ok, that’s overwhelming. must flee. thankds. thanks. really. embies if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies

Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

x-no- arc i think that you give a lot of stuff., more than most of the other people jre at,ad and i thakn you for that jazz

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – check two. i just want to thank you all for these times, those times – you know, when you don’t begrudge that i am taking more than i am giving. it’s, well, it’s big. ok, that’s overwhelming. must flee. thankds. thanks. really. embies if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

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I forgot to say!!! When I was a little girl, my favorite flavor was B*tter R*m (like scutterbotch), and my grmthr used to get my sstr and me bags of candies to have on a steamboat we always used to ride together, and my step-gr-fthr was lockmaster at one of the locks we rode through, so he could stand on the dock and wave hello, and it was soooo fun – and we always had peanuts in the shell, too. Well, I would always have B*tter R*m ones and my sstr would have 5 flavors – or maybe I would, too, and, yes, maybe she would have wintergreen or something. I can’t remember – and maybe both had those treacly lollies called S*gar D*dd*es or maybe packs of S*gar Babies or Choc. Babies, or I can’t even remember all the good things we had, all in a brown paper sack apiece – and – the boat was a paddlewheel steamer – and it played calliope music, all the really old-timey river pieces. But so that wasn’t a rough ocean voyage at all, but it did give me some early experience w/lifesavers, and I guess some indeas about what they might be good for someday. Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m stringing scutterbotch ones in a long line, and then I’ll start on orange and lemon and lime ones. Pretty! Gotta eat one now and again too. Beauty this is a beautiful idea. Embies, are you lining up some to string too? What colours?  Stringing, stringing, nibbling and stringing…. jane Dear jane and embies and all – Let’s all make a string of lifesavers favorite colors/colours – flavors/flavours and plait them together into a raft and go sailing and floating where seas are rough but we ride together in the sweetness or sourness or creamy blend w/extra bags w/us to replace pieces as they melt in oceanwater and to feed ourselves when need arises singing above are sea birds who watch us as we travel and lead us to land when the time is right Beauty. Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

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*sends lots and lots and lots and LOTS of hugs to embies* if ok. :)  if not, make ‘em extra rainbows. *sends lots and lots of rainbows to brighten up the day* We care and you’re in our thoughts.  Keep hanging on.  We would certainly miss u if u were gone. all of us in Rainstar if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

– For more information about this NNTP posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

I’m stringing scutterbotch ones in a long line, and then I’ll start on orange and lemon and lime ones. Pretty! Gotta eat one now and again too. Beauty this is a beautiful idea. Embies, are you lining up some to string too? What colours?  Stringing, stringing, nibbling and stringing…. jane – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear jane and embies and all – Let’s all make a string of lifesavers favorite colors/colours – flavors/flavours and plait them together into a raft and go sailing and floating where seas are rough but we ride together in the sweetness or sourness or creamy blend w/extra bags w/us to replace pieces as they melt in oceanwater and to feed ourselves when need arises singing above are sea birds who watch us as we travel and lead us to land when the time is right Beauty. Sending my friend embies lifesavers of many colours and flavours. Don’t be scared, embies one, just grab hold. I’ve got a good grip on the string and won’t let go. Wanting to help you, wanting things to be wonderful for you, wanting clouds of cotton candy for you to land safely upon… jane if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin

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i don’t know what you are talking about but i did read a lot of your leters and espediaalu thw onwa qirh rheww you explain how e erything works and i like you a loit and thank you and it sems to me natth  you are a nice pe4won. i think you should travel alog.  travel is good and excites one’w soul. jazz

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – if you know me you know why. this is for my friends. and thank you all, from the bottom of my heart. you are all saving me from drowning. i’m afraid of being saved, but i know that lifesavers are sometimes necesary…. or something like that. take great care, embies Be bold in what you stand for and careful of what you fall for. ~ Ruth Boorstin — For more information about this posting service, contact: If you want an anonymous account, visit our sign-up page: https://asarian-host.net/cgi-bin/signup.cgi

Response:

Dear karen – I am sorry if my reply seemed off-putting – that is the last thing I intended – I really do want to be in touch. I welcome email, really, I do – and it is only recently that the husb. put in the *** instead of the real characters – w/out my even knowing he’d done it until afterward. But – let’s see – have you been using an address I can write back to you on? I don’t know if this is an address that will get to you. I was mistaken, too, because I half-remembered that you had written to me before and I had missed it in my in-box because I am *very* bad about letting things stack up . . . but checked back and found not. I’m sorry to have made you sorry for bringing it up. Why are you sorry? Did I say something to upset you? I am not trying to protect myself from *you* – I like you. I might even already have some of your music. But w/or w/out the music, I like you. Therefore, I will go back to doing as I have done in the recent past a couple of times – please: if you want to write, I do really want to hear from you. Add zep instead of *** to get the name of the least-known M*rx Bro., and you will have my correct address. Please write, and please let me know if I have done something to hurt you. Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – NOTE: This message was sent thru a mail2news gateway. No effort was made to verify the identity of the sender. Beauty, Have only written privately to one other who by chance saw handle on another list but do not know if she knows your "key" or not.  Just writing her privately to ask if she was same as on diss list made me feel as if I were invading her privacy.  Because of my background and having gone through life for over 35 years with less than a handful of people knowing of my past "medical" problem (and that it was), I tend to be *very* protective of my privacy also. You had expressed wanting to know of my music, to hear it.  It is on the web, short excerpts of it anyway as well as where to purchase it (and another CD with very well known American composers and musicians)  but my real identity is also there as it’s reflective of the profession that I’ve had for well over 40 years now, but always manage to ignore and not pursue. My "gift" as my tpist calls it. That was the only reason I tried emailing you.  Something in me said "she can be trusted with this information".  "She will not interfere with my life (or whatever else befalls me)" I’m sorry now for even bringing it up.  I do respect your privacy, as well as everyone else on this list.  It may be a blanket statement but we all are here due to trust, invasion of privacy issues of one form or another that have caused deep pain… life altering pain.  I respect that pain… I know it intimately. karen Dear karen You can’t do it just by removing the *** You have to replace those w/other characters. Tell you what: why don’t you ask around, if you have written to others who might know my address, so I don’t have to print the "key" again. Tell whomever that I’ve given permission. I’m getting pretty touchy about privacy – not w/*you* at all – but w/all those unknowns out there. Beauty. NOTE: This message was sent thru a mail2news gateway. No effort was made to verify the identity of the sender. Beauty, Thank you for the kind supportive words.   Yes, I’m aware of the E. River and those who have perished there and perhaps long before in their feelings due to lack of acceptance of their music, and of their creativity. I tried to send you a private email removing the *** before your address but it bounced.   karen Dear karen –

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Dear karen – No issue – don’t worry – because I am still dressed in the remains of my Egyptian queen costume from tonight’s party at the dojang – I can feel in character in decreeing – that everything is fine. I thought I had made you feel bad, that’s all. Now that we’re all through worrying that the other one feels bad, we can get on w/the conversation – and – yes, I did get your message in my in-box. Watch for my reply. Beauty. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – NOTE: This message was sent thru a mail2news gateway. No effort was made to verify the identity of the sender. Beauty, Please do not feel bad.  You said nothing to harm nor were you "off-putting".  This is usenet and I completely understand your need for privacy, not only to stop triggering spam, but because you want and need your own life.   Additionally, I do not use an address that can be replied to as I have not bothered to set up "nyms’ in the software as I did before.  It is just too much trouble to keep track of.  rainstar knows my other address that I can be reached at as it was she who I contacted (and felt terribly guilty over doing as I did not wish her to feel fear in any way which fortunately she did not feel).  So this is also partially my fault as I have no reply address with this software.  Please do not blame yourself or feel bad.   Said I was sorry for bringing it up because I do not want to make waves and in my stupidity wound up hurting someone anyway.  It was not my intention. No, I’m sure that you have none of my music.  I’m an unknown, a nobody in the music world and that is due to my "problems" (that led me here), immense insecurity and self hatred.  It’s an uphill battle, as that of Sissiphus, in trying to change that.  My therp is also fighting an uphill battle with it. apologies for making it into an issue. karen Dear karen – I am sorry if my reply seemed off-putting – that is the last thing I intended – I really do want to be in touch. I welcome email, really, I do – and it is only recently that the husb. put in the *** instead of the real characters – w/out my even knowing he’d done it until afterward. But – let’s see – have you been using an address I can write back to you on? I don’t know if this is an address that will get to you. I was mistaken, too, because I half-remembered that you had written to me before and I had missed it in my in-box because I am *very* bad about letting things stack up . . . but checked back and found not. I’m sorry to have made you sorry for bringing it up. Why are you sorry? Did I say something to upset you? I am not trying to protect myself from *you* – I like you. I might even already have some of your music. But w/or w/out the music, I like you. Therefore, I will go back to doing as I have done in the recent past a couple of times – please: if you want to write, I do really want to hear from you. Add zep instead of *** to get the name of the least-known M*rx Bro., and you will have my correct address. Please write, and please let me know if I have done something to hurt you. Beauty. NOTE: This message was sent thru a mail2news gateway. No effort was made to verify the identity of the sender. Beauty, Have only written privately to one other who by chance saw handle on another list but do not know if she knows your "key" or not.  Just writing her privately to ask if she was same as on diss list made me feel as if I were invading her privacy.  Because of my background and having gone through life for over 35 years with less than a handful of people knowing of my past "medical" problem (and that it was), I tend to be *very* protective of my privacy also. You had expressed wanting to know of my music, to hear it.  It is on the web, short excerpts of it anyway as well as where to purchase it (and another CD with very well known American composers and musicians)  but my real identity is also there as it’s reflective of the profession that I’ve had for well over 40 years now, but always manage to ignore and not pursue. My "gift" as my tpist calls it. That was the only reason I tried emailing you.  Something in me said "she can be trusted with this information".  "She will not interfere with my life (or whatever else befalls me)" I’m sorry now for even bringing it up.  I do respect your privacy, as well as everyone else on this list.  It may be a blanket statement but we all are here due to trust, invasion of privacy issues of one form or another that have caused deep pain… life altering pain.  I respect that pain… I know it intimately. karen

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